Back Bevels On Woodworking Tools – Your Secret To A Sharper

ByJim Boslice Woodworking Tool

What is a back bevel? A back bevel is a very shallow, secondary bevel (1-2 degrees) honed onto the flat back of a woodworking tool, like a chisel or plane iron, right at the cutting edge.

Why use one? It’s a professional technique used to dramatically speed up the sharpening process by creating a new, perfectly flat reference surface without needing to flatten the entire back of the tool. This is especially useful for salvaging old tools or correcting new ones that aren’t perfectly machined.

Ever spent what feels like an eternity rubbing a new chisel on a sharpening stone, trying to flatten the back, only to see that it’s still not perfectly flat? You scrub and you sweat, and the a shiny, consistent surface seems miles away. It’s one of the most frustrating parts of setting up a new tool.

This is a universal struggle in the workshop, but what if I told you there’s a pro trick that can solve this problem in minutes, not hours? It’s a simple, game-changing technique that feels like a well-kept secret among seasoned woodworkers.

By learning how to apply back bevels on woodworking tools, you’ll unlock the ability to get a razor-sharp edge faster, save worn-out tools from the scrap bin, and spend more time building and less time grinding metal.

Keep reading, and I’ll walk you through exactly how to master this technique. Your sharpening routine is about to get a whole lot easier.

What Exactly Is a Back Bevel on a Woodworking Tool?

Let’s clear this up right away, because it sounds more complicated than it is. Normally, a chisel or plane iron has two surfaces that meet to form the cutting edge: the main (or primary) bevel and the perfectly flat back.

A back bevel is simply a tiny, secondary bevel you grind onto the otherwise flat back of the blade, right at the cutting edge. Think of it as a micro-bevel, but on the “wrong” side.

The angle is extremely shallow—typically just one or two degrees. Its only job is to create a new, narrow, and perfectly flat reference surface that meets the primary bevel. Instead of flattening the entire back of the tool (a long and tedious process), you only need to flatten a sliver of metal right where it counts.

Imagine the back of your chisel is a bumpy airfield. You don’t need to repave the entire thing; you just need to create a tiny, perfect runway right at the end for a smooth takeoff. That’s your back bevel.

The Surprising Benefits of Back Bevels on Woodworking Tools

This isn’t just a shortcut; it’s a powerful technique with several practical advantages. Integrating this into your sharpening routine is one of the best back bevels on woodworking tools tips you can learn. Here are the key benefits:

  • Dramatically Speeds Up Sharpening: This is the number one reason woodworkers use it. Lapping the back of a poorly machined plane iron can take ages. By creating a back bevel, you establish a flat reference in under a minute, letting you get back to work.
  • Saves Old or Damaged Tools: Got an old chisel with pitting or rust near the edge on its back? Lapping it down past the damage could remove a lot of steel. A back bevel quickly bypasses the damaged area, giving you a fresh, strong edge and new life for an old tool.

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  • Creates an Incredibly Sharp Edge: A truly sharp edge is the meeting of two perfectly flat, smooth surfaces. A back bevel guarantees one of those surfaces is perfect, leading to a crisp, clean, and scary-sharp cutting edge.
  • Increases Edge Durability (in some cases): By adding a 1-degree back bevel, you slightly increase the total “included angle” of the cutting edge. This can add a bit of strength, making the edge more resistant to chipping when working with tough, knotty woods.

How to Create Back Bevels on Woodworking Tools: A Step-by-Step Guide

Ready to give it a try? The process is simple and requires the same tools you already use for sharpening. This back bevels on woodworking tools guide will walk you through it.

H3: Tools and Materials You’ll Need

  • A Sharpening Medium: This can be water stones, diamond plates, or even fine-grit sandpaper on a flat surface like a granite tile or thick plate glass. A fine stone (4000 grit or higher) is ideal for the final polish.
  • A Honing Guide (Optional but Recommended): While not strictly necessary, a guide can help maintain a consistent angle, especially when you’re first learning.
  • A Permanent Marker: A simple Sharpie is your best friend for seeing where you’re removing material.
  • Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses when working with sharp tools.

The Step-by-Step Process

  1. Assess the Back of the Blade: Lay the back of your chisel or plane iron on your flattest stone. Try to rock it. Does it sit perfectly flat? Use a straight edge to check. If it’s concave or has pitting near the edge, it’s a perfect candidate for a back bevel.

  2. Color the Edge: Use your permanent marker to color the last 1/8 inch of the back of the blade, right along the cutting edge. This ink will show you exactly where you are removing metal.

  3. Set the Angle: This is the key step. Lay the back of the blade flat on your finest sharpening stone. Now, gently lift the spine of the tool just enough to raise the cutting edge off the stone by a hair. We’re talking 1 to 2 degrees. A common trick is to place a thin metal ruler or a couple of sheets of paper under the spine of the blade to consistently set this shallow angle.

  4. Hone the Back Bevel: With the blade held at that slight angle, make a few light, smooth passes across the stone. You don’t need a lot of pressure. The goal is to create a very thin, consistent line of newly polished steel right at the edge.

  5. Check Your Progress: Lift the blade and look at the edge. You should see that you’ve removed the marker ink in a very thin, straight, and shiny line right along the cutting edge. If the line is uneven or doesn’t reach the edge, adjust your pressure or angle and try again. Once you have a consistent polished line, you’re done with the back.

  6. Sharpen the Primary Bevel as Usual: Now that the back is sorted, flip the tool over and sharpen the primary bevel using your normal method. The result will be a perfectly formed, razor-sharp edge where your freshly honed primary bevel meets your new, perfectly flat back bevel.

Common Problems with Back Bevels on Woodworking Tools (And How to Fix Them)

While the process is straightforward, a few issues can pop up. Here’s how to troubleshoot some common problems with back bevels on woodworking tools.

Problem: My Back Bevel is Too Steep

If you lift the blade too high, you’ll create a steep back bevel (5 degrees or more). This can cause a chisel or plane to “dive” into the wood or be difficult to control.

The Fix: Go back to the stone. Lay the blade flat again and lift it just a tiny bit. Remember, you only need a degree or two. Use the ruler trick for consistency.

Problem: The Bevel is Uneven or Wider on One Side

This is usually caused by uneven pressure or rocking the blade as you sharpen.

The Fix: Focus on applying gentle, even pressure directly over the cutting edge. Keep your wrists locked and use your whole body to move the tool. A honing guide can also eliminate this issue.

Problem: The Back Bevel is Too Wide

A back bevel only needs to be a hair’s width. If it’s getting wide (say, 1/16″ or more), you’ve likely spent too much time on it or used too coarse a stone.

The Fix: This isn’t a critical error, but it’s unnecessary work. For the future, use only your finest stone and stop as soon as you see a consistent, shiny line form at the edge.

Back Bevels on Woodworking Tools: Best Practices and Care Guide

Knowing when and how to use this technique is key. Here are some back bevels on woodworking tools best practices to keep in mind.

When to Use a Back Bevel

  • On brand new tools that don’t have a flat back from the factory.
  • On old, flea-market-find tools with rust or pitting near the cutting edge.
  • For a quick field sharpening when you need a working edge fast.
  • On bench chisels and block plane irons that do general-purpose work.

When to Avoid a Back Bevel

While useful, it’s not for every tool. For high-precision joinery, like paring with a chisel, the perfectly flat back is a critical reference surface. In these cases, it’s worth the time to lap the entire back perfectly flat and avoid a back bevel.

Maintaining the Edge: The Care Guide

The great news is that maintenance is easy. When the tool gets dull, simply return to your finest stone, re-establish that tiny back bevel with a few light strokes, and then re-hone the primary bevel. The back bevels on woodworking tools care guide is all about light, quick touch-ups.

A Note on Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Back Bevels on Woodworking Tools

In a craft that values longevity and quality, our sharpening methods can also reflect a sustainable mindset. The practice of creating sustainable back bevels on woodworking tools is really about extending the life of your equipment.

By using a back bevel to salvage a rusty old chisel, you are keeping a quality piece of steel out of a landfill. You’re honoring the energy and resources that went into making it by giving it decades of new life.

Furthermore, because this method is so efficient, you use less of your sharpening stones and less water or oil. This conservation of resources is a simple way to make your workshop practices more eco-friendly.

Frequently Asked Questions About Back Bevels on Woodworking Tools

Can I put a back bevel on any chisel or plane iron?

Almost any! It’s excellent for bench chisels, block plane irons, and smoothing planes. The main exception is for tools where the entire flat back is used as a reference surface against the wood, such as paring chisels or shoulder plane irons used for fine-tuning tenons.

What’s the ideal angle for a back bevel?

The ideal angle is as low as possible—just enough to create a new surface. Aim for 1 to 2 degrees. Any steeper, and it can affect the tool’s performance. It should be barely visible to the naked eye.

Will a back bevel affect how my hand plane performs?

For a low-angle back bevel (1-2 degrees), the effect is negligible for most woodworking tasks. In fact, because it helps you achieve a sharper edge faster, it will likely improve your plane’s performance. A very steep back bevel, however, could cause the plane to cut too aggressively.

Mastering the back bevel is one of those small skills that pays huge dividends in the workshop. It saves you time, frustration, and even money by helping you restore old tools. Give it a try the next time you’re at the sharpening station; you’ll be amazed at how quickly you can achieve a perfect cutting edge.

Now go on, get those tools sharp, and get back to making something beautiful. Stay safe, and happy building!

Jim Boslice
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