How To Use A Table Saw As A Jointer – Achieve Perfectly Flat Edges

Every woodworker knows the frustration: you’ve got a beautiful piece of lumber, but its edges are anything but straight. Cupped, bowed, or just plain rough, they won’t make a clean glue joint for that perfect tabletop or cabinet door. A dedicated jointer is the ideal tool for milling perfectly flat edges, but let’s be honest – they’re a significant investment in both cost and workshop space.

Many of us, especially beginner woodworkers and DIY home builders, just don’t have the budget or room for another large machine. But what if I told you that your trusty table saw, a cornerstone of any workshop, can step up and do the job? It’s true!

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll dive deep into how to use a table saw as a jointer, transforming your raw lumber into perfectly straight stock ready for assembly. We’ll cover everything from safe setup and essential techniques to troubleshooting common issues. By the end, you’ll have the knowledge to achieve professional-grade results, saving money and making the most of the tools you already own. Get ready to flatten those edges and elevate your woodworking projects!

Why Consider Using Your Table Saw as a Jointer?

The allure of a dedicated jointer is undeniable, but there are compelling reasons why learning how to use a table saw as a jointer is a smart move for many woodworkers. It’s all about maximizing your resources and skill.

The Cost-Effective Solution

Let’s face it: woodworking tools can be expensive. A quality jointer can run hundreds, even thousands, of dollars. For hobbyists or those just starting out, that money might be better spent on other essential tools, materials, or even more wood! Using your table saw for jointing means you don’t need to buy another specialized machine.

This approach makes high-quality results accessible without breaking the bank. The benefits of how to use a table saw as a jointer truly shine here.

Space-Saving for Small Workshops

Workshop space is often at a premium. Adding a large jointer to an already crowded garage or basement can be a non-starter. Your table saw is likely already a permanent fixture, so adapting it for jointing uses existing space efficiently.

This is a huge advantage for anyone working in a compact environment, allowing you to expand your capabilities without expanding your footprint.

Versatility in Your Existing Tools

Mastering this technique adds a valuable skill to your repertoire. It demonstrates a deeper understanding of your tools and how to adapt them for various tasks. Your table saw becomes even more versatile, proving its worth as the undisputed workhorse of the workshop.

This method empowers you to tackle projects that might otherwise require a different tool, expanding your creative possibilities.

Essential Safety Precautions When Jointing with a Table Saw

Before we dive into the “how-to,” let’s talk about safety. A table saw is a powerful and potentially dangerous tool. When you’re adapting it for a task like jointing, extra vigilance is absolutely crucial. Following these how to use a table saw as a jointer best practices will keep you safe.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Never skip your PPE. These items are your first line of defense.

• Safety Glasses: Always wear impact-resistant safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying sawdust and wood chips.
• Hearing Protection: Table saws are loud. Earmuffs or earplugs are essential to prevent long-term hearing damage.
• Dust Mask: Fine sawdust can be a respiratory irritant and health hazard. A good quality dust mask or respirator protects your lungs.

Machine Setup and Blade Selection

A safe setup starts with your saw itself. Make sure your saw is clean, well-maintained, and properly aligned.

• Sharp Blade: Use a sharp, clean blade. A dull blade can cause kickback or burn the wood, making control difficult. A standard rip blade (24-40 teeth) is generally suitable.
• Blade Guard: Keep your blade guard in place whenever possible. If your jointing jig interferes with the guard, ensure you have alternative safety measures, like robust featherboards and careful technique.
• Riving Knife/Splitter: Always use your saw’s riving knife or splitter. This prevents the kerf from closing on the blade, significantly reducing the risk of kickback.

Maintaining a Clear Workspace

A cluttered workspace is a dangerous one. Keep it tidy.

• Clear Path: Ensure you have ample space around the saw to maneuver long boards without obstruction.
• Good Lighting: Adequate lighting helps you see your work clearly and identify potential hazards.
• Dust Collection: Effective dust collection not only keeps your shop clean but also improves visibility and reduces respiratory risks.

Remember, no project is worth an injury. Take your time, focus on the task, and always err on the side of caution.

The Core Technique: Setting Up Your Table Saw for Jointing

The magic behind how to use a table saw as a jointer lies in a clever adjustment of your rip fence. This isn’t just about pushing wood through; it’s about precise calibration and thoughtful jigging. This section serves as your essential how to use a table saw as a jointer guide.

Adjusting Your Rip Fence for Jointing

This is the most critical step. The goal is to make your outfeed fence slightly proud (sticking out) of the infeed fence, essentially creating a tiny “step” that allows the blade to remove a controlled amount of material.

Offsetting the Outfeed Fence

1. Choose Your Offset: For jointing, you want to remove a very thin strip of wood. An offset of 1/64″ to 1/32″ is usually sufficient. Start with 1/64″ for lighter cuts.
2. Prepare Your Fence: If your table saw fence has a T-slot or holes, you can attach auxiliary wooden fences. These are crucial because you’ll be offsetting the outfeed section. Cut two pieces of straight plywood or MDF, about 3/4″ thick, that are slightly taller than your blade at its maximum height.
3. Mount Auxiliary Fences: Attach these auxiliary fences to your main rip fence. The goal is to have two distinct fence sections: an infeed fence and an outfeed fence.
4. Create the Offset:
   • Secure the infeed auxiliary fence so it’s perfectly flush with the face of your main rip fence.
   • Now, here’s the trick: place a thin shim (a piece of cardstock, veneer, or even a feeler gauge) between your main rip fence and the outfeed auxiliary fence. This shim will create your offset. Clamp or screw the outfeed auxiliary fence securely in place with the shim still there.
   • Carefully remove the shim. The outfeed fence should now be offset by the thickness of that shim.

Using a Straight Edge to Verify Offset

After setting up, always verify your offset for accuracy.

1. Lower your blade completely below the table.
2. Place a long, known straight edge (like a trusted level or aluminum rule) flat against the outfeed fence.
3. Slide the straight edge forward until it reaches the infeed fence. You should see a tiny gap between the straight edge and the infeed fence, corresponding to your chosen offset. This confirms your setup is correct.

Blade Height and Type for Jointing

The blade height and type play a role in the quality of your jointed edge.

• Blade Height: Set the blade height so it’s just barely above the top of the workpiece. This minimizes exposed blade and helps with dust collection.
• Blade Type: A standard rip blade with 24-40 teeth and a flat-top grind (FTG) or alternate top bevel (ATB) is suitable. Avoid specialty crosscut blades with too many teeth, as they can cause excessive friction and burning.

Creating a Featherboard or Jig

To ensure consistent pressure against the fence and the tabletop, a featherboard is indispensable. This is a key part of how to use a table saw as a jointer tips for consistent results.

• Horizontal Featherboard: Clamp a featherboard to your table saw fence, pressing the workpiece firmly against the tabletop. This keeps the board from lifting.
• Vertical Featherboard: Clamp another featherboard to your table saw top, pressing the workpiece firmly against the auxiliary fences. This ensures consistent contact with the fence throughout the cut.
• Push Sticks/Blocks: Always use push sticks or push blocks, especially when your hands are close to the blade or when jointing shorter pieces.

With this careful setup, your table saw is now ready to act as an effective jointer.

Step-by-Step: Jointing Boards with Your Table Saw

Now that your table saw is safely set up, it’s time to put it to work. Follow these detailed steps for effective jointing. This section is full of practical how to use a table saw as a jointer tips to ensure success.

Preparing Your Stock

Good preparation leads to good results. Don’t rush this stage.

1. Inspect Your Wood: Look for nails, staples, or other foreign objects that could damage your blade. Remove them.
2. Rough Cut to Size: If your board is excessively long or wide, rough-cut it slightly oversized before jointing. This makes handling safer and easier.
3. Identify the Best Face/Edge: For jointing, you’re looking to create one perfectly straight edge. If the board has a bowed or cupped edge, decide which side to reference against the fence for the first pass. Often, starting with the concave side against the fence is best.

The First Pass

This is where the actual jointing begins. Focus on a smooth, controlled feed.

1. Position the Board: Place the board on the table saw with the edge to be jointed against the infeed auxiliary fence. Ensure the board is flat on the table and snug against the fence.
2. Engage Featherboards: Position your featherboards to apply firm but not excessive pressure, keeping the board against the table and the fence.
3. Start the Saw: Turn on your table saw and allow it to reach full speed before beginning the cut.
4. Feed the Board: Using push sticks or push blocks, slowly and steadily feed the board through the blade. Maintain consistent pressure against both the tabletop and the fence. The outfeed fence should support the freshly cut edge immediately after it passes the blade.
5. Complete the Pass: Continue feeding until the entire board has passed through the blade and is fully supported by the outfeed fence and table.

Multiple Passes and Flipping the Board

One pass is rarely enough for a truly straight edge.

• Check for Straightness: After the first pass, turn off the saw. Hold a known straight edge against the freshly cut edge of your board. Look for any light showing through, indicating remaining bows or cups.
• Subsequent Passes: Make additional passes, removing a very thin amount of material each time, until the edge is perfectly straight. You might need 2-4 passes depending on the initial condition of the wood and your fence offset.
• Flipping the Board: If you’re jointing a very long or slightly warped board, sometimes flipping the board end-for-end between passes can help distribute the cut and achieve a straighter edge more efficiently.

Checking for Straightness

Don’t just assume it’s straight; verify it.

• Visual Inspection: Hold the board up to eye level and sight down the edge. It should appear perfectly flat and straight.
• Straight Edge Test: Use a reliable straight edge. Place it against the jointed edge and check for any gaps or rocking.
• Witness Marks: For glue-ups, you can draw a squiggly line across the edges of two boards you plan to join. When you bring them together, the line should form a continuous, smooth curve, indicating a tight joint.

Practice makes perfect with this technique. Start with scrap wood until you feel confident in your setup and feeding method.

Advanced Tips and Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with the best setup, you might encounter challenges. Here are some advanced tips and solutions for common problems with how to use a table saw as a jointer, helping you refine your technique.

Dealing with Warped or Cupped Boards

Not all wood comes perfectly flat. Here’s how to handle challenging stock:

• Start with the Worst Edge: If a board has a severely bowed or cupped edge, begin by jointing the side that offers the most stable reference against the fence or table. For a cupped board, you might want to place the concave side against the fence first.
• Small Bites: For very warped pieces, take extremely shallow passes (e.g., 1/128″ or even less). This reduces stress on the wood and the saw, giving you more control.
• Multiple Flips: Don’t be afraid to flip the board end-for-end and even side-to-side between passes. This can help “balance” the material removal and prevent the saw from pushing the warp further in one direction.

Ensuring Consistent Pressure

Inconsistent pressure is a common cause of uneven edges.

• Featherboard Placement: Ensure your featherboards are positioned correctly – one pressing the board down onto the table, and another pressing it firmly against the fence. Adjust them so they apply gentle but constant pressure without hindering the feed.
• Body Stance: Adopt a stable, balanced stance. Use your body weight to guide the board, rather than just arm strength. This allows for a smoother, more controlled feed.
• Push Blocks for the Win: For the last few inches of a cut, when the board is no longer fully supported by your hands, push blocks are essential for maintaining consistent pressure and safety.

Recognizing and Fixing Blade Marks

Even a sharp blade can leave minor marks if not used correctly.

• Burning: If you see burn marks on your jointed edge, it usually means your feed rate is too slow, your blade is dull, or the blade is dirty. Increase your feed rate slightly (while maintaining control), clean your blade, or sharpen/replace it.
• Scalloping/Unevenness: If the edge isn’t perfectly flat and has slight scallops, your fence offset might be too aggressive, or your feed rate is inconsistent. Reduce the offset, slow down, and focus on a smooth, continuous motion.
• Blade Wobble: A poorly seated blade or a damaged arbor can cause blade wobble, leading to uneven cuts. Always double-check that your blade is clean, correctly installed, and the arbor nut is tight.

Patience and careful observation are your best friends when troubleshooting. Each piece of wood is unique, and adapting your technique is part of the craft.

Maintaining Your Setup for Optimal Performance and Longevity

Learning how to use a table saw as a jointer effectively isn’t just about the cut; it’s also about maintaining your tools. Proper care ensures accuracy, safety, and extends the life of your equipment. This section covers how to use a table saw as a jointer care guide principles, touching on aspects of sustainable how to use a table saw as a jointer by promoting tool longevity and efficiency.

Blade Care and Cleaning

Your blade is the heart of your cut. Keep it in top condition.

• Regular Cleaning: Saw blades accumulate pitch and resin, especially when cutting softwoods or resinous woods. This buildup makes the blade duller and can cause burning. Clean your blade regularly with a specialized blade cleaner or a mild degreaser and a brass brush.
• Sharpening/Replacement: A sharp blade cuts cleanly and safely. Don’t push a dull blade. Have it professionally sharpened or replace it when it no longer produces a clean cut. A sharp blade also reduces energy consumption, making your process more eco-friendly how to use a table saw as a jointer.
• Storage: When not in use, store blades properly to prevent damage to the teeth. Blade storage cases are a worthwhile investment.

Fence Alignment Checks

The accuracy of your jointing relies heavily on your fence. Regular checks are vital.

• Periodically Verify Offset: Re-check your fence offset with a straight edge before each jointing session. Shims can shift, or clamps can loosen.
• Fence Parallelism: Ensure your main rip fence is parallel to the blade (when not offset for jointing). This is a fundamental table saw setup that impacts all cuts, including jointing. Use a dial indicator or a good quality measuring tape to check the distance from the blade to the fence at the front and back of the blade.
• Auxiliary Fence Condition: Inspect your auxiliary fences. Are they still perfectly straight and flat? Over time, wood can warp, or screws can loosen. Replace them if they show signs of bowing or damage.

Dust Collection for a Cleaner Workshop

Good dust collection isn’t just for cleanliness; it’s for performance and health.

• Clear Pathways: Ensure your saw’s dust port and your dust collector’s hoses are clear of clogs. Efficient dust removal means better visibility of your cut line and less material buildup on your blade and table.
• Health Benefits: Reducing airborne dust is crucial for your respiratory health. This practice aligns with sustainable woodworking by creating a safer, more pleasant working environment.
• Tool Longevity: Dust and fine particles can wear down moving parts on your saw over time. Keeping your saw clean extends its operational life.

By making these maintenance practices a regular part of your routine, you’ll not only get better results from your table saw jointing technique but also ensure your tools serve you reliably for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About Using a Table Saw as a Jointer

It’s natural to have questions when adapting a tool for a new purpose. Here are some common queries about how to use a table saw as a jointer.

Can I joint long boards on a table saw?

Yes, you can joint long boards, but it requires extra care and support. You’ll need reliable infeed and outfeed roller stands or support tables to maintain consistent pressure and prevent the board from tipping. The longer the board, the more critical stable support becomes for safety and accuracy.

What kind of blade is best for jointing on a table saw?

A standard 24-40 tooth rip blade with a flat-top grind (FTG) or alternate top bevel (ATB) is generally best. Blades with fewer teeth clear chips more efficiently, reducing burning. Avoid thin-kerf blades, as they can be more prone to deflection, and high-tooth-count crosscut blades, which can generate too much heat and friction.

Is this method as accurate as a dedicated jointer?

While a dedicated jointer, especially a high-quality one, can often achieve slightly more consistent results with less effort, the table saw jointing method can produce perfectly straight and square edges that are more than adequate for most woodworking projects, including precise glue-ups. The key is careful setup, proper technique, and consistent pressure.

How do I know if my fence is perfectly straight?

To check if your fence is perfectly straight (before adding auxiliary fences for jointing), use a known good straight edge. Lay the straight edge against the fence face and look for any light passing through. Move the straight edge along the entire length of the fence. Any gaps indicate that your fence is not straight and may need adjustment or an auxiliary fence to true it up.

What if my wood still isn’t straight after several passes?

If your wood remains crooked, re-evaluate your setup. First, check your fence offset and ensure it’s consistent. Second, verify your auxiliary fences are perfectly flat and securely attached. Third, assess your feeding technique: are you applying consistent pressure against both the fence and the table? Are your featherboards positioned correctly? Sometimes, very warped wood might require a slightly different approach or a dedicated jointer if the warp is extreme.

Mastering how to use a table saw as a jointer opens up a world of possibilities for your woodworking projects, allowing you to achieve professional-level results without needing a dedicated machine. It demands precision, patience, and a steadfast commitment to safety, but the rewards are perfectly straight edges and strong, beautiful glue-ups.

Remember, your table saw is a versatile tool, and with the right setup and technique, it can truly shine in unexpected ways. Always double-check your settings, keep your blade sharp, and prioritize your safety above all else.

Now go forth, flatten those edges, and build something incredible! Stay safe and stay comfortable in your workshop!

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Jim Boslice

Jim Boslice is a power tool enthusiast who tests, reviews, and shares practical guides to help DIYers and professionals choose the right tools for every project.

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