Making A Thin Strip Ripping Jig – Precision Cuts & Safer Rips Every

A thin strip ripping jig is a shop-made table saw accessory designed to safely and accurately cut very narrow strips of wood, often too small to safely handle with a standard fence setup.

It works by holding the workpiece securely against a fixed fence and allowing the blade to cut off the desired thin strip, greatly improving precision and reducing the risk of kickback or injury.

You’ve been there, right? You’re working on a beautiful inlay, a delicate box, or maybe just some trim, and you need perfectly consistent, impossibly thin strips of wood. You try to wrestle a narrow piece between the saw blade and the fence, and it’s a white-knuckle experience.

The wood binds, it burns, or worse, it kicks back with terrifying force. It’s frustrating, dangerous, and it ruins good material.

What if I told you there’s a simple, shop-made solution that will transform this dreaded task into a smooth, safe, and accurate operation?

This comprehensive guide will walk you through making a thin strip ripping jig that will revolutionize how you approach delicate cuts on your table saw. We’ll cover everything from the design principles to a step-by-step build, ensuring you gain the confidence and skill to create flawless thin strips every single time. Get ready to enhance your woodworking precision and safety!

Why You Need a Thin Strip Ripping Jig for Your Workshop

Let’s be honest, ripping thin strips on a table saw without a dedicated jig is one of the most nerve-wracking operations in the shop. It’s not just about getting the cut right; it’s about keeping all your fingers.

A specialized jig takes the fear out of the equation and delivers unparalleled results.

Unmatched Precision and Consistency

When you need strips that are identical in thickness, often down to a sixteenth of an inch or less, freehand methods or even a standard fence can fall short. The jig provides a stable, repeatable setup.

  • Accurate Cuts: Achieve exact dimensions consistently, crucial for intricate joinery or decorative work.
  • No Tapering: Eliminate the common problem of strips getting thinner at one end due to wobble or uneven pressure.
  • Repeatability: Cut dozens of identical strips without re-measuring or adjusting the fence for each one.

Enhanced Safety at the Table Saw

Safety is paramount in any workshop, and this is where a thin strip ripping jig truly shines. Small pieces of wood are notorious for kickback when caught between the blade and the fence.

  • Reduced Kickback Risk: The jig securely holds the workpiece, preventing it from twisting or binding against the blade.
  • Hands Away from Blade: It keeps your hands a safe distance from the spinning blade, often using clamps or push blocks.
  • Controlled Feeding: Guides the material smoothly and predictably, minimizing sudden movements.

Versatility for Various Projects

Once you have this jig, you’ll find countless uses for it beyond just decorative inlays.

  • Edge Banding: Create custom edge banding from solid wood.
  • Small Trim Pieces: Rip perfect trim for boxes, frames, or miniature furniture.
  • Shims and Spacers: Generate precise shims for leveling or spacing applications.
  • Laminations: Produce consistent strips for bent laminations or stacked veneers.

The benefits of making a thin strip ripping jig extend far beyond a single project. It’s an investment in your safety, accuracy, and overall woodworking enjoyment.

Understanding the Design: How to Making a Thin Strip Ripping Jig Work

Before we dive into the build, let’s grasp the core concept behind these jigs. Most thin strip ripping jigs operate on a simple yet ingenious principle: instead of pushing the wood *between* the blade and the fence, you push the wood *alongside* the fence, letting the blade cut off a thin strip from the *outside* edge of the board.

This setup means the thin strip is immediately free and clear of the blade after it’s cut, preventing it from getting trapped and causing kickback.

Key Components of a Standard Jig

While designs can vary, most effective jigs share a few common elements:

  • Base Plate: This is the foundation of your jig, typically made from plywood or MDF, which slides in your table saw’s miter slot.
  • Fixed Fence: A straight, robust fence securely attached to the base plate. This fence dictates the path of your workpiece.
  • Workpiece Clamps: Toggle clamps or other securing mechanisms hold your board firmly against the fixed fence.
  • Sacrificial Fence (Optional but Recommended): A piece of wood attached to the main fence that the saw blade cuts into. This provides zero-clearance support for the workpiece and prevents tear-out.

The beauty of this design is its simplicity. It converts a potentially dangerous cut into a routine, safe, and highly accurate task.

Gathering Your Materials & Tools for Making a Thin Strip Ripping Jig

Building this jig is a fantastic project in itself, and it doesn’t require exotic materials or specialized tools. Many items you likely already have in your shop will work perfectly. This also presents an opportunity for sustainable making a thin strip ripping jig by utilizing scrap materials.

Essential Materials for Your Jig

Focus on flat, stable sheet goods for the base and fence. Good quality plywood or MDF are excellent choices.

  • ¾-inch Plywood or MDF: A piece roughly 12 inches wide by 24-30 inches long for the base, and another piece around 3-4 inches wide by 24-30 inches long for the main fence. Look for flat, cabinet-grade plywood for best results.
  • Miter Slot Runner: A strip of hardwood (like oak or maple) or a pre-made aluminum bar that fits snugly in your table saw’s miter slot. This ensures the jig slides smoothly and accurately.
  • Toggle Clamps: Two quick-release toggle clamps (vertical or horizontal type, depending on your preference) are ideal for quickly securing the workpiece.
  • T-Track (Optional but Recommended): A section of aluminum T-track, around 18-24 inches long, can be embedded in the jig to allow for adjustable clamp positioning.
  • Screws: Various wood screws (e.g., #8 x ¾-inch, #8 x 1¼-inch) for attaching components.
  • Wood Glue: A strong woodworking adhesive for permanent joints.
  • Scrap Wood for Sacrificial Fence: A piece of pine or hardwood, about ¾-inch thick and 2-3 inches wide, the same length as your main fence.

For an eco-friendly making a thin strip ripping jig, consider using offcuts from previous projects for the base and fences. Even small pieces of plywood can be repurposed effectively.

Required Tools

You’ll primarily use your table saw for cutting the jig’s components, along with some basic hand tools.

  • Table Saw: For cutting plywood/MDF to size and creating grooves for T-track.
  • Drill/Driver: For pre-drilling holes and driving screws.
  • Router (Optional): If you plan to embed T-track, a router with a straight bit will make a clean dado.
  • Measuring Tape and Square: For accurate layout and ensuring components are square.
  • Clamps: Bar clamps or F-clamps for holding pieces while glue dries.
  • Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection.

Having these materials and tools ready will make the construction process smooth and efficient.

Step-by-Step Guide: Making a Thin Strip Ripping Jig

This section outlines the precise steps for making a thin strip ripping jig. Follow these instructions carefully, prioritizing accuracy and safety at every stage.

Step 1: Prepare the Base and Miter Slot Runner

Start with the foundation of your jig. A stable base is critical for accurate cuts.

  1. Cut the Base: Cut your ¾-inch plywood or MDF to the desired base size, typically 12 inches wide by 24-30 inches long. Ensure all edges are perfectly square.
  2. Cut the Miter Slot Runner: Cut a strip of hardwood or use your aluminum bar to fit snugly into one of your table saw’s miter slots. It should be slightly shorter than your base plate.
  3. Attach the Runner: Position the runner on the underside of your base plate. Align it so it’s parallel to one long edge of the base. This edge will run against your saw blade. Use screws (and glue, if using wood) to secure it, ensuring the screws are countersunk and don’t protrude. Test fit it in your table saw’s miter slot to ensure smooth, wobble-free movement.

Step 2: Construct and Attach the Main Fence

The main fence is what your workpiece will register against. It needs to be perfectly straight and securely fastened.

  1. Cut the Fence: Cut your ¾-inch plywood or MDF fence piece to 3-4 inches wide by the same length as your base.
  2. Attach the Fence: Position the fence perpendicular to the miter slot runner and parallel to the blade-side edge of your base plate. Use wood glue and screws to attach it securely from the underside of the base. Ensure it’s perfectly square to the base and the miter slot runner.
  3. Add Reinforcement (Optional): For extra rigidity, you can add a triangular support block or a second piece of plywood glued and screwed perpendicular to the main fence and base.

Step 3: Install the T-Track and Toggle Clamps

These components allow you to quickly and firmly secure your workpiece.

  1. Route T-Track Channel (if applicable): If using T-track, use a router to cut a dado on the top surface of your base, parallel to the main fence. The dado should be sized to perfectly fit your T-track.
  2. Install T-Track: Secure the T-track into its channel using the provided screws. If not using T-track, you’ll simply mount your clamps directly to the base.
  3. Mount Toggle Clamps: Attach two toggle clamps to the T-track (if using) or directly to the base, ensuring they can reach and hold your workpiece firmly against the main fence. Position them so they don’t interfere with the blade’s path. Adjust their height to accommodate your typical stock thickness.

Step 4: Create and Attach the Sacrificial Fence

This is a crucial element for tear-out prevention and safety.

  1. Cut the Sacrificial Fence: Cut a strip of scrap wood (pine, poplar, or MDF works well) to the same length as your main fence, about ¾-inch thick and 2-3 inches tall.
  2. Attach Temporarily: Use clamps to temporarily attach this sacrificial fence to the main fence. It should extend slightly past the blade-side edge of the main fence.
  3. Make the Initial Cut: With the sacrificial fence clamped in place, carefully slide your jig through the table saw blade. The blade will cut a kerf into the sacrificial fence. This creates a zero-clearance opening for the blade.
  4. Secure Permanently: Once the kerf is cut, you can screw the sacrificial fence permanently to the main fence, ensuring the screws are clear of the blade’s path. Now you have a perfect zero-clearance fence for your cuts.

Step 5: Final Checks and Adjustments (Making a thin strip ripping jig tips)

Before making any cuts, always perform these crucial checks.

  • Squareness Check: Use a reliable square to ensure your main fence is perfectly perpendicular to the saw blade’s path (which is determined by your miter slot runner).
  • Blade Clearance: Double-check that all screws, clamps, and jig components are well clear of the saw blade’s path at its highest point.
  • Smooth Movement: Ensure the jig slides smoothly in the miter slot without binding or excessive play.
  • Clamp Security: Verify that the toggle clamps hold your workpiece firmly against the main fence without slipping.

Your jig is now ready! Remember, patience and precision in building the jig will pay off with years of safe and accurate use.

Thin Strip Ripping Jig Best Practices & Safety First

Building the jig is only half the battle. Using it correctly and safely is paramount. These making a thin strip ripping jig best practices will help you achieve perfect results every time.

Using Your New Jig Safely

Safety should always be your top priority. This jig makes ripping thin strips safer, but it doesn’t eliminate all risks.

  • Always Use Push Sticks/Blocks: Even with the jig, keep your hands clear. Use a dedicated push stick or block to feed the workpiece through the cut.
  • Proper Blade Height: Set your blade height so it’s just above the workpiece. Too high, and it increases kickback risk; too low, and it struggles to cut.
  • Steady, Consistent Feed Rate: Don’t rush the cut. A smooth, even feed prevents burning and reduces the chance of binding.
  • Never Reach Over the Blade: Keep your hands on the workpiece or the jig’s push handle, never directly above the blade.
  • Use a Sharp Blade: A dull blade will burn the wood and increase the effort needed to push the material, which can lead to unsafe conditions. Use a ripping blade with a low tooth count (e.g., 24T-40T) for efficient material removal.

Achieving Perfect Thin Strips

Precision is the goal. A few simple techniques will ensure your strips are consistently flawless.

  • Prepare Your Stock: Start with a perfectly straight, flat, and square-edged board. Any imperfections will transfer to your thin strips.
  • Make a Test Cut: Before ripping your final material, use a scrap piece to test the thickness and make any fine adjustments to your table saw fence.
  • Adjust the Table Saw Fence: The thickness of your strip is determined by the distance between the *outside* of your workpiece (which is against the jig’s fence) and the *inside* edge of your saw blade. Adjust your table saw’s main fence to precisely control this distance.
  • Keep it Clean: Ensure the jig’s base and your table saw top are free of sawdust and debris for smooth sliding.

Common Problems with Making a Thin Strip Ripping Jig & Troubleshooting

Even with a well-built jig, you might encounter minor issues. Here’s how to tackle them:

  • Burn Marks on Strips: This often indicates a dull blade, too slow a feed rate, or excessive friction. Solution: Sharpen or replace blade, increase feed rate slightly, ensure jig slides freely.
  • Inconsistent Strip Thickness: If your strips vary, check if your jig’s miter slot runner is truly snug and not wobbly. Also, ensure your workpiece is firmly clamped against the jig’s fence throughout the cut. Solution: Replace or adjust runner, tighten clamps, ensure workpiece is flat.
  • Binding or Kickback: This is less likely with a jig but can still happen. It usually means the workpiece is twisting, or the blade is pinching. Solution: Ensure workpiece is flat and straight, check blade alignment, make sure the sacrificial fence is still intact and providing zero clearance.
  • Tear-out on the Strip: If the wood splinters, especially on the top surface, it’s often due to lack of support. Solution: Ensure your sacrificial fence is providing true zero-clearance support right up to the blade, consider adding a featherboard to hold the workpiece down firmly.

Maintaining Your Jig: Making a Thin Strip Ripping Jig Care Guide

Just like any other tool or jig in your workshop, a little care goes a long way in ensuring your thin strip ripping jig remains accurate and reliable for years to come. Proper maintenance also aligns with sustainable making a thin strip ripping jig principles by extending its lifespan.

Regular Cleaning and Inspection

Sawdust is the enemy of precision. Make it a habit to clean your jig after each use.

  • Brush Off Dust: Use a brush or compressed air to remove all sawdust from the base, fences, and especially the T-track and clamp mechanisms.
  • Inspect for Wear: Check the miter slot runner for any signs of wear or damage that could affect its fit. Look for loose screws or cracked wood.
  • Check Clamps: Ensure the toggle clamps operate smoothly and still hold securely. Lubricate their pivot points with a dry lubricant if they become stiff.

Replacing the Sacrificial Fence

The sacrificial fence, by its very nature, will wear out. It will get cut into multiple times and may accumulate damage.

  • Monitor Kerf Width: If the kerf in your sacrificial fence becomes too wide, it will no longer provide adequate tear-out support.
  • Replace When Worn: When the sacrificial fence shows significant wear, or if you change blade thicknesses, it’s time to replace it. Simply unscrew the old one and attach a new piece of scrap wood, repeating the initial cutting step to create a fresh zero-clearance kerf. This is an excellent example of an eco-friendly making a thin strip ripping jig practice, as you’re only replacing a small, consumable part.

Storage and Protection

Store your jig properly to protect it from damage and environmental factors.

  • Flat Storage: Store the jig flat to prevent warping. Hanging it on a wall is usually fine, but ensure it’s well-supported.
  • Protect from Moisture: Keep the jig in a dry environment to prevent the wood from swelling or warping.

By following this simple care guide, your thin strip ripping jig will continue to be a valuable and precise asset in your workshop for countless projects.

Frequently Asked Questions About Making a Thin Strip Ripping Jigs

Here are some common questions woodworkers have about these invaluable jigs.

How thin can I rip with this jig?

You can typically rip strips as thin as 1/32 inch or even less with a well-made jig and a sharp, appropriate blade. The limitation is usually the stability of the wood itself and your blade’s kerf, rather than the jig.

Can I use this jig on a miter saw?

No, this type of jig is specifically designed for a table saw. Its function relies on sliding in the table saw’s miter slot and guiding a workpiece parallel to the blade for ripping operations. Miter saws are for cross-cutting and are not suitable for this jig or this type of cut.

What type of blade is best for ripping thin strips?

A sharp, high-quality ripping blade (24-40 teeth) is ideal. For very thin or delicate strips, a thin-kerf blade can reduce material waste and strain on your saw. Ensure the blade is clean and sharp to prevent burning and kickback.

Is it worth making a thin strip ripping jig if I only need a few strips?

Absolutely! The time invested in building the jig is quickly recouped in terms of safety, accuracy, and frustration avoided, even for a small number of strips. Once you have it, you’ll find yourself reaching for it more often than you think.

How do I ensure my jig is square to the blade?

The key is that your miter slot runner is perfectly straight and fits snugly in the miter slot. When attaching the main fence to the base, use a reliable woodworking square to ensure it’s perpendicular to the runner. Once installed, the jig’s path is determined by the miter slot, so a properly installed runner guarantees squareness to the blade.

There you have it! Making a thin strip ripping jig is one of those workshop projects that pays dividends for years. You’ve learned the *how-to making a thin strip ripping jig* process, from understanding its crucial design to implementing thin strip ripping jig best practices.

By building and utilizing this essential accessory, you’re not just making cuts; you’re elevating your craft, enhancing your safety, and achieving a level of precision that was once difficult and dangerous.

Take your time, follow the steps carefully, and remember that patience in the shop leads to pride in your work. Go ahead, gather your materials, and get building. You’ll wonder how you ever managed without it!

Stay safe, stay creative, and happy woodworking!

Jim Boslice

Similar Posts