Microbevels On Woodworking Tools – Your Secret To A Wickedly Sharp

ByJim Boslice Woodworking Tool

What is a microbevel? A microbevel is a very narrow, secondary bevel honed at a slightly steeper angle (usually 2-5 degrees more) right at the cutting edge of a tool like a chisel or plane iron.

Why use one? It makes sharpening incredibly fast because you only need to remove a tiny amount of steel. It also creates a stronger, more durable edge that stays sharp longer.

Ever feel like you spend more time sharpening your chisels and plane irons than actually using them? You go through the whole process—flattening the back, grinding the primary bevel, working through grits—only to have that perfect edge feel dull after just a few tough cuts in some oak or maple.

It’s a common frustration in the workshop. A sharp tool is a safe and effective tool, but maintaining that sharpness can feel like a constant, time-consuming chore.

I promise you there’s a better, faster way. It’s a simple technique that pro woodworkers have used for generations to get back to making sawdust quicker. It’s all about using microbevels on woodworking tools.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know. We’ll cover what a microbevel is, the huge benefits it offers, how to create one step-by-step, and how to avoid common mistakes. Get ready to change your sharpening game for good.

What Exactly Is a Microbevel? (And Why You Should Care)

Let’s demystify this term. It sounds technical, but the concept is beautifully simple and practical. Once you grasp it, you’ll see why it’s such a powerful technique for any woodworker.

Primary Bevel vs. Microbevel: A Simple Breakdown

Think about the sharpened edge of your favorite bench chisel. That main, long, sloped surface is called the primary bevel. For a general-purpose chisel, you probably ground this to around 25 degrees.

A microbevel is a second, much smaller bevel right at the very tip of that cutting edge. It’s honed at a slightly steeper angle, typically just 2 to 5 degrees more than the primary bevel. So, if your primary bevel is 25 degrees, you’d add a microbevel at around 27 to 30 degrees.

This microbevel is tiny—often barely visible to the naked eye. But its impact on your tool’s performance and your sharpening routine is massive.

The “Why” Behind the Micro-Magic

So why add this extra step? It’s all about efficiency and strength. When you need to re-sharpen your tool, you don’t have to flatten and polish the entire primary bevel. That’s a lot of steel to remove!

Instead, you only need to work on that tiny microbevel. You’re removing a fraction of the metal, which means you can bring a tool from dull to razor-sharp in under a minute. It’s the ultimate sharpening shortcut that doesn’t cut corners on quality.

The Game-Changing Benefits of Microbevels on Woodworking Tools

Adopting this technique isn’t just about saving a little time; it fundamentally improves your workflow and the performance of your hand tools. Here are the key benefits you’ll notice right away.

  • Incredibly Fast Sharpening: This is the number one reason woodworkers love microbevels. Instead of spending 10-15 minutes re-honing a primary bevel on your water stones, you can re-establish a razor-sharp edge on the microbevel in just a few strokes. More time making, less time sharpening.
  • Increased Edge Durability: By increasing the angle right at the cutting tip, you’re adding more metal and structural support where it matters most. This makes the edge more robust and less prone to chipping or folding over, especially when working with tough hardwoods.
  • Longer Tool Life: Because you’re only removing a microscopic amount of steel from the tip with each sharpening, your chisels and plane irons will last significantly longer. You aren’t grinding away the tool’s life just to get a sharp edge. This is a core principle of sustainable microbevels on woodworking tools.
  • Easy Angle Adjustments: Want to switch from chopping mortises in pine to paring end grain in purpleheart? You can quickly hone a slightly steeper microbevel (say, 32 degrees) for the tougher task without regrinding the entire primary bevel. It offers incredible versatility on the fly.

How to Create Perfect Microbevels on Woodworking Tools: A Step-by-Step Guide

Ready to give it a try? This process is straightforward, especially if you have a good honing guide. Here is a simple microbevels on woodworking tools guide to get you started.

Tools & Materials You’ll Need

  • A chisel or plane iron that needs sharpening
  • Sharpening stones (water stones, diamond plates, or oil stones work well – a medium and a fine grit are sufficient, e.g., 1000 and 6000 grit)
  • A honing guide (like the popular Veritas Mk. II or a simple eclipse-style guide)
  • A strop loaded with honing compound (optional, but highly recommended for the sharpest edge)
  • A small ruler or setup block for your honing guide

Step 1: Establish Your Primary Bevel

Before you can create a microbevel, you need a flat, consistent primary bevel. If your tool is new or has a damaged edge, you may need to start on a grinder or a coarse stone to establish this first.

Set your honing guide to your desired primary angle—25 degrees is a great starting point for most bench planes and chisels. Hone the tool on your medium-grit stone until you feel a consistent burr form on the back (the flat side) of the blade.

Then, move to your fine-grit stone to polish the primary bevel. You don’t need a perfect mirror polish here, just a clean, flat surface.

Step 2: Set Your Microbevel Angle

This is the key step. To create the microbevel, you need to slightly increase the angle. With a honing guide like the Veritas Mk. II, this is as simple as turning a dial. With a basic eclipse-style guide, you can achieve this by extending the blade out from the guide by just a tiny amount (about 1/16 of an inch).

A more precise way is to place a thin shim, like a small steel ruler, under the front roller of the honing guide. This lifts the guide just enough to create a steeper angle of a few degrees. Your goal is an angle 2-5 degrees steeper than your primary bevel.

Step 3: Hone the Microbevel

Now, move to your finest sharpening stone (e.g., 6000 or 8000 grit). With the new, steeper angle set, take just a few light strokes. You are only sharpening the very tip of the blade.

You should feel and hear the difference immediately. After 5-10 strokes, you should see a very thin, polished line appear right at the cutting edge. That’s your microbevel! Once you raise a tiny burr, you’re done with this step.

Step 4: Strop for a Razor-Sharp Finish

Lay the back of the blade flat on your strop and pull it backwards a few times to remove the burr. Then, flip the tool over and, maintaining the microbevel angle, pull the blade across the strop a few times.

This final step polishes away any microscopic imperfections and leaves you with a scarily sharp, durable edge. Test it on some end grain—it should slice through with minimal effort.

Common Tools That Benefit from a Microbevel

While not for every tool (you wouldn’t put one on a carving gouge or a skew chisel), microbevels are fantastic for most straight-edged cutting tools in the shop.

  • Bench Chisels: Perfect for general-purpose chisels. A 25-degree primary with a 30-degree microbevel is a workhorse combination.
  • Plane Irons: Whether it’s a smoothing plane, jointer plane, or jack plane, a microbevel makes re-sharpening the iron a breeze.
  • Block Planes: Especially useful here, as block planes are often used for tough end grain. The stronger microbevel edge holds up beautifully.

Common Problems with Microbevels on Woodworking Tools (and How to Fix Them)

Even this simple technique can have a few hiccups. Here are some common problems with microbevels on woodworking tools and how to get back on track.

The “Dubbed Over” Edge

The Problem: The edge feels rounded and won’t get truly sharp. This often happens from rocking the tool or applying too much pressure, especially when honing freehand.

The Fix: A honing guide is your best friend here. It locks in the angle, ensuring a flat, consistent microbevel. Use light, even pressure.

Inconsistent Angle

The Problem: The microbevel is wider on one side of the blade than the other.

The Fix: This means your blade isn’t square in the honing guide. Before you start, make sure the blade’s edge is parallel to the front of the guide. Also, apply even pressure with your fingers across the width of the blade as you hone.

The Microbevel Getting Too Large

The Problem: After many re-sharpenings, the microbevel starts to look more like a primary bevel. It becomes wide and takes longer to hone.

The Fix: This is perfectly normal! It just means it’s time to go back to your medium-grit stone and re-establish the primary bevel (at 25 degrees). This erases the old microbevel, and you can start the process over. You might do this after every 10-20 microbevel sharpenings.

Microbevels and Sustainability: A Surprising Connection

When we talk about workshop practices, sustainability might not be the first thing that comes to mind. However, using eco-friendly microbevels on woodworking tools is a genuine, practical way to be more resourceful.

By only removing a tiny amount of steel with each sharpening, you dramatically extend the usable life of your tools. A plane iron that might last 10 years with traditional sharpening could last 20 or 30 with a microbevel approach. This means less consumption and less waste.

Furthermore, because sharpening is so much faster, you use less water (with water stones) and generate less slurry and waste. It’s a small change, but it’s a smarter, more conservative approach to maintaining the tools we love.

Frequently Asked Questions About Microbevels on Woodworking Tools

How big should a microbevel be?

It should be very small—ideally less than 1/32 of an inch (or about 0.5mm) wide. If you can easily see it from a distance, it’s probably getting too big, and it’s time to re-establish the primary bevel.

Do I absolutely need a honing guide?

While some experienced woodworkers can hone microbevels by hand, a honing guide is highly recommended for beginners. It removes all the guesswork and guarantees a consistent, precise angle, which is critical for the technique to work effectively.

How often do I need to re-sharpen a microbevel?

This is the beauty of it. When the tool starts to feel dull, just go back to your finest stone and take a few more strokes on the microbevel. The process takes less than a minute. Think of it as a quick touch-up. This simple routine is the heart of a good microbevels on woodworking tools care guide.

Can I put a microbevel on a scraper or a knife?

You generally wouldn’t put a microbevel on a card scraper, as that relies on a sharp, 90-degree burr. For most whittling or carving knives, a single, flat “scandi” grind is often preferred for control. Microbevels are best suited for tools that primarily chop or pare, like chisels and planes.

Mastering microbevels on woodworking tools is one of those “aha!” moments in your journey. It’s a small adjustment that pays huge dividends in time, effort, and the quality of your work.

Give it a try on your next sharpening session. You’ll spend less time at the stones and more time enjoying the simple pleasure of using a perfectly tuned, razor-sharp tool.

Stay sharp and stay safe in the workshop!

Jim Boslice
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