Planing With A Table Saw – Achieve Smooth, Flat Stock Safely And

Ever found yourself staring at a beautifully figured piece of lumber, only to realize it’s bowed, cupped, or twisted? Getting perfectly flat, parallel stock is the foundation of quality woodworking, but not everyone has the luxury of a dedicated jointer and thickness planer in their shop.

It’s a common dilemma for hobbyists and DIYers: how do you get that smooth, consistent material without breaking the bank or taking up precious workshop space? Many woodworkers wonder if their trusty table saw can step up to the challenge.

The good news is, with the right techniques, meticulous setup, and an unwavering commitment to safety, your table saw can indeed be pressed into service for planing with a table saw. While it won’t replace a dedicated planer for high-volume work or extreme precision, it’s a fantastic skill to add to your repertoire for smaller projects or when working with slightly out-of-spec lumber.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about how to plane with a table saw. We’ll cover the essential safety precautions, detailed setup instructions, step-by-step techniques, and even tackle common problems. By the end, you’ll have a clear roadmap to achieving flatter, more consistent stock right in your own shop, empowering you to tackle more ambitious woodworking projects with confidence.

Is Planing with a Table Saw Really Possible? Understanding the Basics

Let’s be clear upfront: a table saw isn’t designed for planing in the same way a thickness planer or jointer is. Those machines use rotating cutter heads to shave off thin layers of wood, creating perfectly flat and parallel surfaces.

However, a table saw, with its incredibly straight fence and precise blade height adjustments, can be leveraged to achieve similar results, albeit through a different process. Think of it less as “planing” and more as a series of carefully executed cuts to establish reference surfaces.

The core idea behind planing with a table saw involves two main stages:

• Jointing a Face: Creating one perfectly flat surface on a board. This is usually done by supporting the warped board on a jig or sled that provides a stable, flat reference against the table saw’s surface.
• Jointing an Edge: Once one face is flat, you use that face against the table saw’s fence to create one perfectly straight 90-degree edge.
• Ripping to Thickness: With a flat face and a straight edge, you can then use the fence and blade to consistently remove material from the opposite face, making it parallel to the first jointed face.

The benefits of planing with a table saw are significant for the home woodworker. It saves money on expensive machinery, conserves workshop space, and allows you to prepare stock for projects that might otherwise be out of reach. It’s an empowering technique that gives you greater control over your raw materials.

Safety First: Non-Negotiable Rules for Planing with a Table Saw

Before we dive into any techniques, let’s talk about the absolute most important aspect of using a table saw for anything, especially operations like this: safety. A table saw is an incredibly powerful and potentially dangerous tool if not respected. When you’re essentially “planing” with it, you’re performing operations that require extra vigilance.

There are no shortcuts here. Always prioritize your safety and the safety of those around you.

Essential Safety Gear

Never approach your table saw without these:

• Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris. Always.
• Hearing Protection: Table saws are loud. Preserve your hearing with earmuffs or earplugs.
• Dust Mask/Respirator: Sawdust is a known carcinogen. Protect your lungs.
• Push Sticks and Push Blocks: These are extensions of your hands. They keep your fingers far away from the spinning blade. Never feed material without them.
• Appropriate Clothing: Avoid loose clothing, dangling drawstrings, or jewelry that could get caught in the machinery.

Pre-Operation Checklist

Before you even power on the saw, perform these checks:

• Blade Inspection: Ensure your blade is sharp, clean, and free of damage. A dull blade is a dangerous blade, increasing the risk of kickback and burning.
• Guard Usage: Always use your blade guard and riving knife. These are critical for preventing kickback and keeping your hands safe. Never remove them unless absolutely necessary for a specific operation (which planing with a table saw is not).
• Clear Workspace: Remove any clutter, scraps, or tools from your table saw’s surface and the surrounding area. You need clear outfeed and side support.
• Proper Stance: Stand slightly to one side of the blade, out of the line of potential kickback. Maintain a balanced stance and firm grip on your workpiece and push sticks.
• Check for Obstructions: Ensure the wood you’re cutting is free of nails, screws, or other foreign objects that could damage the blade or cause kickback.

Following these planing with a table saw best practices for safety is not optional; it’s a requirement for a successful and injury-free woodworking experience.

Setting Up Your Table Saw for Effective Planing

Achieving good results when planing with a table saw hinges on precise setup. This isn’t a technique you can rush. Take your time to ensure everything is perfectly aligned and secured.

Choosing the Right Blade

The blade you use makes a significant difference. For smooth, clean cuts suitable for planing:

• High Tooth Count: Opt for a blade with 40-60 teeth (or even higher for very fine work). More teeth mean smaller bites and a smoother finish.
• Appropriate Tooth Grind: A Flat-Top Grind (FTG) blade is ideal for ripping, as it creates a flat kerf. An Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) blade, commonly used for crosscutting, can also work well if it has a high tooth count, providing a very clean cut. Avoid combination blades designed for both ripping and crosscutting if you want the absolute best finish for this specific operation.
• Sharpness: As mentioned, a sharp blade is paramount for safety and cut quality.

Fence Alignment: The Key to Straight Cuts

Your table saw fence must be perfectly parallel to the blade. Even a slight misalignment can lead to binding, burning, kickback, and inaccurate cuts. Here’s how to check and adjust it:

1. Unplug the Saw: Always unplug your saw before making any adjustments near the blade.
2. Raise the Blade: Raise the blade to its maximum height.
3. Measure at Front and Back: Place a measuring tape or a reliable straightedge against a tooth at the front of the blade. Slide your fence until it just touches the straightedge. Lock the fence.
4. Rotate Blade and Re-Measure: Rotate the blade so the same tooth is now at the back of the blade. The distance between the fence and the blade tooth should be identical.
5. Adjust if Necessary: If there’s a discrepancy, consult your table saw’s manual for instructions on how to adjust the fence for parallelism. This is a crucial step for accurate planing with a table saw.

Featherboards and Push Blocks: Your Best Friends

Controlling the workpiece is critical. Featherboards and proper push blocks will prevent the wood from wandering, lifting, or twisting during the cut. This is a core part of planing with a table saw tips for accuracy and safety.

• Featherboards: Mount them to your fence or table to apply consistent pressure, holding the workpiece tightly against the fence and down onto the table. They prevent kickback and ensure straight cuts.
• Push Blocks: Use push blocks with a non-slip surface to exert downward and forward pressure, especially when the workpiece gets narrow or your hands are close to the blade.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Planing with a Table Saw

Now that your saw is safely set up, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of how to plane with a table saw. Remember, patience and small, controlled passes are key.

Step 1: Jointing the First Face (Rough Flattening)

This is arguably the most challenging step, as you’re starting with a warped board. You need to create one flat reference face. The most common method involves a simple sled or a straight-edge jig.

1. Prepare Your Sled/Jig: Create a sled that slides in your miter slot, or use a sturdy straight edge clamped to the warped board. The goal is to provide a flat reference for the first cut.
2. Attach the Board: Place your warped board onto the sled or against your straight edge. Use shims (small wedges or thin pieces of wood) between the warped board and the sled/jig to eliminate any rock or wobble. Clamp the board securely to the sled/jig. The goal is to make the board stable and flat *relative to the jig*.
3. Make the First Pass: Set your blade to remove only a very thin amount of material (1/16″ or less). Position the jig/sled against the fence (if using a fence-riding jig) or slide it through the miter slot. Make a slow, controlled pass.
4. Inspect and Repeat: Unclamp the board, remove any shims, and inspect the freshly cut face. If it’s not entirely flat, re-shim and repeat the process, taking thin passes until you have one consistently flat face. This is your new reference face.

Step 2: Jointing the First Edge

With one flat face established, you can now create a perfectly straight edge, 90 degrees to that face.

1. Reference the Flat Face: Place the newly flattened face of your board against the table saw fence.
2. Set the Fence: Adjust the fence so the blade will remove a minimal amount of material from one edge, just enough to clean it up and make it perfectly straight.
3. Make the Pass: Using push sticks and featherboards (to keep the board tight against the fence and table), make a slow, steady pass.
4. Check for Square: Use a reliable try square to check if the jointed edge is 90 degrees to the jointed face. Adjust if necessary.

Step 3: Ripping to Final Width

Now that you have one flat face and one straight edge, you can rip the board to your desired width.

1. Set the Fence: Measure and set your table saw fence to the desired final width of your board.
2. Reference the Jointed Edge: Place the jointed edge firmly against the fence. The flat face should be down on the table.
3. Make the Pass: Use push sticks and featherboards to guide the board through, creating a parallel, straight second edge.

Step 4: Achieving Consistent Thickness (The “Planing” Part)

This is where you effectively “plane” the board to its final thickness, making the top face parallel to the first jointed face. This is a critical part of the planing with a table saw guide.

1. Set Blade Height: Adjust your blade height so it will remove a thin amount of material from the top of the board.
2. Set the Fence: Set your fence to control the amount of material removed, effectively setting your thickness. This is where your first jointed face becomes your reference.
3. Make First Pass: Place the *jointed face down* on the table. Use push sticks to make a pass.
4. Flip and Repeat: Flip the board end-for-end (not face-for-face) and make another pass, removing material from the *same* side. This helps to relieve internal stresses in the wood.
5. Gradually Reduce Thickness: Continue making thin passes, flipping the board end-for-end each time, until you reach your desired final thickness. You are shaving off thin layers from the unjointed side until it is parallel to the jointed side.

This methodical approach ensures you’re always referencing a known, flat surface, allowing you to achieve remarkable consistency.

Common Problems with Planing with a Table Saw and How to Solve Them

Even with the best intentions and careful setup, you might encounter some issues when planing with a table saw. Knowing how to troubleshoot them will save you frustration and material.

Blade Marks and Burn Marks

These are common culprits that can ruin an otherwise good cut.

• Causes: A dull blade, feeding too fast, using the wrong type of blade for ripping, or the fence not being perfectly parallel to the blade (causing binding).
• Solutions:
  • Ensure your blade is razor-sharp.
  • Slow down your feed rate. Let the blade do the work.
  • Use a high-quality ripping blade (FTG) for optimal results.
  • Re-check your fence alignment. Even a tiny deviation can cause burning.
  • Ensure your dust collection is working effectively to clear sawdust from the kerf.

Tapered Cuts or Non-Parallel Faces

If your board isn’t the same thickness from end to end, or the faces aren’t parallel, your setup likely needs adjustment.

• Causes: Fence not perfectly parallel to the blade (most common), inconsistent feed pressure, or the workpiece lifting off the table or pulling away from the fence.
• Solutions:
  • Re-calibrate your fence thoroughly. This is often the root cause.
  • Use featherboards to apply constant, even pressure against the fence.
  • Ensure your workpiece is flat against the table saw top. A slight warp can be exacerbated. Shim as necessary for the first face jointing.
  • Maintain steady, even pressure with your push sticks throughout the entire cut.

Kickback

This is when the workpiece is violently thrown back towards the operator. It’s extremely dangerous.

• Causes: Blade binding (often due to a misaligned fence or warped wood pinching the blade), dull blade, feeding too fast, not using a riving knife, or applying pressure incorrectly.
• Solutions:
  • Always use your riving knife and blade guard. They are your primary defense against kickback.
  • Ensure your fence is perfectly parallel to the blade.
  • Use a sharp blade.
  • Maintain a proper stance, standing to the side of the blade.
  • Use push sticks and maintain consistent pressure, keeping the wood tight against the fence and down on the table.
  • Never cut freehand.
  • Avoid making cuts where the wood pinches the blade. For very warped stock, consider removing less material per pass.

Addressing these common problems with planing with a table saw will significantly improve your results and, more importantly, your safety.

Sustainable & Eco-Friendly Planing with a Table Saw

As woodworkers, we have a responsibility to be mindful of our environmental impact. Adopting sustainable practices, even when planing with a table saw, contributes to a healthier planet and a more thoughtful craft.

Maximizing Wood Yield

Every piece of wood is precious. When planning your cuts:

• Plan Ahead: Carefully lay out your cuts to minimize waste. Utilize offcuts for smaller components or shop jigs.
• Work with the Wood: Understand the grain and natural movement of the wood. Sometimes, adjusting your project dimensions slightly can accommodate a piece of lumber that would otherwise be discarded due to warp.

Dust Collection and Disposal

Sawdust isn’t just a nuisance; it’s a health hazard and a resource.

• Effective Dust Collection: Invest in a good dust collection system for your table saw. This not only keeps your shop cleaner and safer but also allows for easier collection of sawdust.
• Responsible Disposal/Use: Collect fine sawdust for composting (untreated wood only), garden mulch, or as a fire starter. Larger chips can be used for animal bedding or in outdoor paths. Avoid sending sawdust to landfills where possible.

Tool Maintenance for Longevity

Taking care of your tools is an eco-friendly planing with a table saw practice. Well-maintained tools last longer, reducing the need for replacements and minimizing waste.

• Regular Cleaning: Keep your table saw clean, especially the blade, arbor, and fence mechanism.
• Blade Sharpening: Instead of constantly buying new blades, have your quality blades professionally sharpened. This extends their life and ensures efficient, cleaner cuts.
• Rust Prevention: Keep your cast iron top waxed to prevent rust, which can degrade performance and tool life.

These practices demonstrate a commitment to both craftsmanship and environmental stewardship, making your sustainable planing with a table saw efforts even more rewarding.

Frequently Asked Questions About Planing with a Table Saw

Here are some common questions woodworkers have when considering using their table saw for planing tasks:

Can I plane very wide boards with a table saw?

The practical limit for width when planing with a table saw is often determined by your table saw’s capacity and the size of your jigs. While you can technically flatten one face of a very wide board using a sled, ripping it to a consistent thickness and parallel faces becomes much more challenging. For boards wider than 10-12 inches, a dedicated jointer and planer, or even hand planes, might be more practical and yield better results.

Is this method as good as a dedicated planer?

No, not typically. A dedicated thickness planer is designed to achieve highly accurate, consistent thickness across a board quickly and efficiently. While you can get very good results planing with a table saw, it’s a slower, more labor-intensive process that demands extreme precision and patience. It’s an excellent alternative for hobbyists or small projects but isn’t a true replacement for a dedicated machine in terms of speed, ease, or ultimate precision on all stock.

What’s the maximum thickness I can remove in one pass?

When planing with a table saw, you should always aim for very shallow passes. Typically, remove no more than 1/16″ (about 1.5mm) per pass. For very dense or warped wood, even less is better. Aggressive passes increase the risk of kickback, blade deflection, burning, and a rougher finish. Patience is key to achieving good results.

How often should I sharpen my blade when planing?

The frequency depends on the type of wood you’re cutting (hardwoods dull blades faster), how much material you’re removing, and the quality of your blade. You’ll know your blade needs sharpening when you notice increased burning, more effort required to push the wood, or a rougher cut finish. A sharp blade is crucial for safety and cut quality when planing with a table saw, so consider professional sharpening when performance declines.

Can I plane reclaimed wood with a table saw?

You can, but proceed with extreme caution. Reclaimed wood often contains hidden nails, screws, dirt, or other foreign objects that can severely damage your table saw blade and create dangerous kickback. Always thoroughly inspect reclaimed wood with a metal detector and a wire brush before attempting any cuts. If you’re unsure, it’s safer to use hand tools or a dedicated metal-detecting planer.

Mastering the art of planing with a table saw is a valuable skill for any woodworker. It opens up possibilities for projects that might otherwise be out of reach without dedicated machinery, allowing you to transform rough lumber into precise components.

Remember, the core principles are always the same: **safety first**, meticulous setup, and patient, controlled execution. Take your time, double-check your measurements, and always use your safety gear. With practice, you’ll gain confidence and achieve impressive results, building your craft one perfectly planed board at a time.

Keep honing your skills, stay safe, and enjoy the rewarding journey of woodworking!

• Author
• Recent Posts

Jim Boslice

Jim Boslice is a power tool enthusiast who tests, reviews, and shares practical guides to help DIYers and professionals choose the right tools for every project.

Latest posts by Jim Boslice (see all)

• Sn Tools Table Saw – Your Complete Guide To Safe, Precise Cuts - December 16, 2025
• Used Sliding Table Saws – Your Smart Guide To Finding A Great Deal - December 16, 2025
• Sliding Table For Table Saw – Unlock Precision And Safety In Your - December 16, 2025