Secondary Bevels On Woodworking Tools – The Ultimate Guide

ByJim Boslice Woodworking Tool

A secondary bevel, also called a microbevel, is a narrow, second angle honed at the very tip of a tool’s primary cutting bevel. Its main purpose is to dramatically speed up the sharpening process.

Instead of re-honing the entire bevel surface, you only focus on this tiny edge, saving time and steel. This also creates a stronger, more durable cutting edge that resists chipping and stays sharp longer.

Do you ever feel like you spend more time at the sharpening station than at your workbench? You meticulously flatten your stones, set your honing guide, and grind away, only for that razor-sharp edge to feel dull again after just a few passes in some tough grain.

It’s a common frustration that can really slow down a project’s momentum. You start to wonder if there’s a secret to keeping tools sharp without the constant, time-consuming maintenance.

I promise you, there is a better way. The secret isn’t some expensive new gadget; it’s a classic, time-tested sharpening technique. In this guide, I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know about creating secondary bevels on woodworking tools.

You’ll learn what they are, why they are a game-changer for efficiency and edge durability, and exactly how to create them. Get ready to spend less time sharpening and more time making shavings.

What Exactly Are Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools?

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s clear up what we’re talking about. The concept is simple, but understanding the mechanics is key to getting it right. This isn’t complex geometry, just smart sharpening.

Primary Bevel vs. Secondary Bevel: A Simple Analogy

Think of your tool’s cutting edge like a big mountain. The main slope of that mountain, from the flat face of the tool down to the cutting edge, is the primary bevel. This is the main angle you establish when first grinding a new chisel or plane iron, typically around 25 degrees.

Now, imagine a tiny, steeper path right at the very peak of that mountain. That’s your secondary bevel. It’s a very narrow band, often less than 1/32 of an inch wide, honed at an angle that is slightly steeper than the primary bevel—usually by just 2 to 5 degrees.

So, if your primary bevel is 25 degrees, your secondary bevel would be around 27 to 30 degrees. This tiny, steeper angle is what does all the cutting.

The “Microbevel” Explained

You’ll often hear the terms “secondary bevel” and “microbevel” used interchangeably, and for good reason. They are essentially the same thing. The “micro” part just emphasizes how small this second bevel really is.

The whole point is that you are no longer sharpening the entire face of the primary bevel. Instead, you’re just re-honing that tiny, microscopic edge. This is the core principle that makes this technique so incredibly efficient.

The Top 3 Benefits of Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools

Okay, so it’s a second, smaller bevel. Why should you care? Adopting this sharpening method offers some serious advantages that directly translate to better, faster, and more enjoyable woodworking. Here are the main benefits of secondary bevels on woodworking tools.

  1. Dramatically Faster Sharpening
    This is the number one reason woodworkers swear by this method. When your edge gets dull, you don’t need to work the entire primary bevel on your stones. You only need to touch up the tiny secondary bevel. This means removing a fraction of the steel, turning a 10-minute sharpening session into a 30-second touch-up.

  2. Increased Edge Durability
    By increasing the angle at the very cutting edge, you’re adding more metal right behind it. That slight increase from 25 to 28 degrees, for example, makes the edge significantly stronger and more resistant to chipping or folding over, especially when working with tough, figured hardwoods or hitting unexpected knots.

  3. Longer Tool Life
    Since you remove so little metal during each re-honing, your valuable chisels and plane irons will last much, much longer. Over the years, this adds up. This is the cornerstone of any good secondary bevels on woodworking tools care guide; it’s about preservation through efficiency.

How to Create Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools: A Step-by-Step Guide

Ready to give it a try? The process is straightforward. Once you do it a couple of times, it will become second nature. Here is a practical secondary bevels on woodworking tools guide to get you started.

Tools & Materials You’ll Need

  • A Hand Tool: A bench chisel or plane iron is perfect for your first time.
  • Sharpening Stones: A medium (e.g., 1000-grit) and a fine (e.g., 4000 or 8000-grit) water stone, diamond plate, or oil stone.
  • Honing Guide: Highly recommended for beginners to maintain consistent angles. A popular choice is the Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide.
  • Strop: A piece of leather charged with a honing compound for the final polish.
  • Small Ruler or Setup Block: To set the blade projection in your honing guide.

Step 1: Establish Your Primary Bevel

Before you can add a secondary bevel, you need a solid foundation. Make sure your tool’s primary bevel is flat, clean, and sharpened to your desired angle (25 degrees is a great starting point for general-purpose work).

Use your honing guide and medium-grit stone to establish this primary bevel. Work the blade until you feel a consistent “burr” or wire edge form on the back (the flat side) of the tool. Once established, you won’t need to touch this bevel again for a long time.

Step 2: Set Up for the Secondary Bevel

This is the crucial step. To create a slightly steeper angle, you need to make a tiny adjustment.

If you’re using a honing guide like the Veritas Mk. II, this is incredibly simple. You just turn the eccentric cam on the roller, which raises the blade ever so slightly. This small lift is what creates the 2-degree increase for your secondary bevel.

If you’re using a simpler guide, you can achieve the same effect by retracting the blade into the guide by about 1/16 of an inch. This also lifts the back of the blade, increasing the angle. If honing freehand, you’ll simply lift the back of the blade by a tiny amount off the stone.

Step 3: Honing the Microbevel

Now, move to your fine grit stone (4000 or 8000-grit). With your blade adjusted for the steeper angle, take just a few light strokes. You are only honing the very tip of the edge.

You should feel it bite into the stone almost immediately. After 5-10 strokes, stop and look closely at the edge. You should see a very thin, polished line right at the cutting tip. That’s your secondary bevel!

Step 4: Removing the Burr and Final Stropping

Just like with regular sharpening, you will have created a very small burr. To remove it, lay the back of the blade perfectly flat on your fine stone and take one or two light passes.

Finally, move to your leather strop. Perform a few strokes on the bevel side (maintaining that secondary bevel angle) and a few on the flat back. This polishes the edge to razor sharpness and ensures it’s clean and ready for work.

Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools Best Practices

Getting the technique down is one thing, but mastering it involves a few pro tips. Here are some best practices to keep in mind.

Choosing the Right Angle

A good rule of thumb is to make your secondary bevel 2-5 degrees steeper than your primary bevel. For a general-purpose bench chisel with a 25-degree primary bevel, a 28-30 degree secondary bevel is perfect for balancing durability and cutting performance.

Which Tools Benefit Most?

This technique is ideal for any tool with a flat bevel that you sharpen frequently.

  • Bench Chisels
  • Mortise Chisels
  • Block Plane Irons
  • Bench Plane Irons (Smoothing, Jack, Jointer)

It’s less common on tools with complex shapes like carving gouges or turning tools, which have their own specific sharpening requirements.

Freehand vs. Honing Guide: Which is Better?

A honing guide provides unbeatable consistency, which is why I strongly recommend it for beginners learning how to create secondary bevels on woodworking tools. It guarantees you hit the same angle every time.

That said, experienced woodworkers can easily create secondary bevels freehand by slightly lifting the tool’s handle during the final honing strokes. It takes practice but can be even faster once you develop the muscle memory.

Common Problems with Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools (And How to Fix Them)

Even with a simple technique, you can run into a few snags. Here are some common problems and their solutions.

Problem: My Secondary Bevel is Too Wide

If your secondary bevel starts to look more like a primary bevel (getting wider than 1/16″), it means you’ve re-honed it many times. This isn’t a failure! It’s just a sign that it’s time to go back to your medium-grit stone and re-establish the primary bevel. We call this “re-grinding.” Once the primary bevel is re-established up to the edge, you can start the process of adding a new, tiny secondary bevel again.

Problem: The Edge Feels Fragile or Chips Easily

This usually indicates that the angle is too acute for the wood you’re cutting. If your 28-degree secondary bevel is chipping in hard maple, try re-honing it at 30 or even 32 degrees. The steeper angle adds strength.

Problem: I Can’t Seem to Get it Sharp

If the edge isn’t getting sharp, you’re likely not creating a burr. Make sure you are making full contact at the very edge. You might need a few more strokes on your fine stone. Also, ensure you are fully removing the burr by flattening the back and stropping properly.

Sustainable Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools: An Eco-Friendly Approach

It might not seem obvious, but this sharpening method is inherently sustainable. In a craft that values longevity and resourcefulness, every little bit helps. This is a perfect example of eco-friendly secondary bevels on woodworking tools in practice.

By removing a microscopic amount of steel with each sharpening, you drastically extend the life of your tools. A high-quality chisel can last a lifetime—or several—if cared for properly. This reduces consumerism and waste. Furthermore, relying on long-lasting water stones or diamond plates instead of disposable sandpaper also contributes to a more sustainable workshop.

Frequently Asked Questions About Secondary Bevels on Woodworking Tools

How often should I re-hone my secondary bevel?

As soon as you feel the tool start to drag or require more effort to push through the wood. With a secondary bevel, a touch-up takes less than a minute, so you can do it frequently to always work with a perfectly sharp edge.

Can I put a secondary bevel on a carving gouge?

Generally, no. Carving tools have complex curved or V-shaped profiles that are typically sharpened with slip stones to match their existing shape. A flat secondary bevel would alter the tool’s cutting geometry.

What’s the difference between a secondary bevel and a back bevel?

A secondary bevel is on the main beveled face of the tool. A back bevel is a very shallow bevel (1-2 degrees) put on the normally flat back of a plane iron. It’s a specialty technique used to effectively increase the blade’s cutting angle in the plane, which is useful for controlling tear-out in figured woods.

Adopting the secondary bevel is one of the most impactful changes you can make to your sharpening routine. It saves time, saves your tools, and gives you a more robust cutting edge, letting you focus on the craft itself.

So grab that dull chisel you’ve been avoiding, head to your sharpening station, and give this a try. You’ll be amazed at how quickly you can get back to making clean, satisfying shavings.

Stay sharp, and happy woodworking!

Jim Boslice
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