Course Of Brickwork – Master The Fundamentals Of Level Masonry

ByJim Boslice Metalworking & Fabrication

A course of brickwork is a single horizontal layer of bricks and mortar that forms the building block of any masonry structure. To achieve professional results, each course must be perfectly level and aligned using a string line and consistent mortar thickness.

Properly staggering the vertical joints between courses ensures structural stability and prevents the wall from cracking or collapsing under its own weight.

There is something deeply satisfying about watching a wall rise from the ground, one steady layer at a time. For many DIYers, the idea of tackling a masonry project feels intimidating because of the perceived permanence of the materials. However, mastering every course of brickwork is a rhythmic, manageable process once you understand the basic mechanics of the craft.

I promise that by focusing on the fundamentals of a single layer, you can build anything from a simple garden planter to a robust retaining wall. You don’t need decades of apprenticeship to achieve clean lines and structural integrity; you just need patience and the right sequence of movements. This guide will walk you through the essential techniques that professional masons use to keep their work straight and true.

We are going to dive into the terminology, the toolset, and the step-by-step execution of laying brick. By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to mix your first batch of mortar and start your project. Let’s get your workshop ready for some serious masonry work and turn those raw materials into a lasting structure.

Understanding the Fundamentals of a Course of Brickwork

In masonry, a course refers to a continuous horizontal layer of bricks. While it sounds simple, the course of brickwork is where the physics of your wall happens. Each layer must distribute the weight of the layers above it evenly across the foundation or the course below.

A standard brick wall isn’t just bricks stacked on top of each other. It is a system of units bonded together by mortar joints. The horizontal mortar joint is known as the bed joint, while the vertical joint between individual bricks is called the perp (short for perpendicular) joint.

Consistency in these joints is what separates a DIY “blob” from a professional-grade wall. Most standard courses are designed to be 75mm high, which includes a 65mm brick and a 10mm mortar bed. Maintaining this 10mm standard across the entire course of brickwork is vital for the math of your project to work out correctly.

The Role of the Bed Joint

The bed joint is the foundation of every layer. It provides the cushion that allows you to level the brick. If your bed joint is too thin, you won’t have enough room to tap the brick down into a level position. If it is too thick, the weight of the bricks above might cause the mortar to “ooze” out before it sets.

The Importance of Perps

Perpendicular joints, or perps, must be kept at a consistent width—usually 10mm—to ensure the bricks “bond” correctly. In a standard stretcher bond, the perp of one course should sit exactly in the middle of the brick below it. This staggering is what gives the wall its lateral strength and prevents vertical cracks from running through the entire structure.

Essential Tools for Laying a Perfect Course

You cannot achieve a professional course of brickwork with just a bucket and a shovel. Masonry is a game of precision, and your tool kit should reflect that. While you don’t need the most expensive gear, you do need tools that are clean and well-maintained.

  • The Pointing Trowel: A smaller trowel used for finishing joints and picking up small amounts of mortar.
  • The Brick Trowel: Your primary tool for “buttering” bricks and spreading large beds of mortar. Look for one with a comfortable grip.
  • Spirit Levels: You need at least two—a short 600mm level for checking individual bricks and a long 1200mm level for checking the overall run.
  • Line and Pins: This is the most important tool for keeping your courses straight over long distances.
  • The Brick Hammer: Used for “dressing” or cutting bricks to size when you reach the end of a run.
  • Jointing Tool: Often called a “jointer,” this helps you compress and shape the mortar joints for a weather-tight finish.

Keep a large sponge and a bucket of clean water nearby. Masonry is messy, and cleaning your tools as you go prevents dried mortar from ruining the balance of your trowels. A clean trowel allows the mortar to slide off smoothly, which is essential for a fast, efficient workflow.

The Anatomy of a Brick: Orientations within a Course

Not every brick in a course of brickwork is laid the same way. Depending on the design and structural needs, you might rotate the brick to change the look or the thickness of the wall. Understanding these terms will help you read blueprints or design your own projects. Stretcher: This is the most common orientation. The long side of the brick faces outward. It is the fastest way to build a wall and uses the least amount of material. Header: The short end of the brick faces outward. Headers are often used to tie two “leaves” of a wall together, providing immense structural stability. In decorative patterns, headers can create beautiful geometric designs. Soldier: Bricks stood vertically on their ends with the narrow “stretcher” face showing. These are often seen above windows or as decorative capping on top of a wall. They add a dynamic visual element to an otherwise horizontal project. Rowlock: Bricks laid on their long narrow side with the short end facing out. These are common for window sills and the tops of garden walls because they shed water effectively. Using rowlocks on the final course of brickwork protects the interior of the wall from moisture penetration.

Step-by-Step: How to Lay Your First Course

The first layer is the most critical. If the first course is crooked, every subsequent layer will magnify that error. This is why pros spend the most time on “Course Zero” (the dry layout) and the first actual bed of mortar.

  1. The Dry Lay: Before mixing mortar, lay your bricks out on the foundation. Space them about 10mm apart. This allows you to see if you’ll end up with a tiny “sliver” of a brick at the end. Adjust your joint spacing slightly to avoid awkward cuts.
  2. Setting the Leads: Instead of building from one end to the other, masons build the “leads” (the corners) first. Build up 3 or 4 courses at each corner, ensuring they are perfectly plumb and level.
  3. Using the Line: Once your corners are set, stretch a mason’s line between them. The line should sit about 2mm away from the brick face and level with the top edge of the course you are currently laying.
  4. Spreading the Bed: Lay a “sausage” of mortar along the foundation. Use your trowel to create a furrow in the middle. This furrow helps the mortar spread evenly when you press the brick down.
  5. Buttering the Perp: Apply a layer of mortar to the end of the brick you are about to lay. This is called “buttering.” Push the brick into place against the previous one, ensuring the perp joint is full.
  6. Tapping to the Line: Use the handle of your trowel to gently tap the brick down until its top edge is flush with your string line. Never push the brick against the line; keep that 2mm gap to avoid “bowing” the line.

Once you finish a course of brickwork, use your level to check across the top and against the face. If a brick is slightly out of alignment, fix it immediately. Once the mortar begins to “pull” (stiffen), moving the brick will break the bond, and you’ll have to scrape it clean and start over.

Common Bond Patterns for DIY Projects

The “bond” is the pattern in which the bricks are laid. While it serves an aesthetic purpose, its primary job is to ensure the course of brickwork overlaps correctly. This overlap prevents vertical seams that would act as fault lines in your wall. Stretcher Bond: The simplest and most popular. Bricks are laid as stretchers, with the perps of one course centered over the bricks below. It is perfect for single-thickness garden walls and fascia work. English Bond: This alternates one course of headers with one course of stretchers. It is one of the strongest bonds available and was traditionally used for heavy engineering projects and load-bearing walls. It looks robust and traditional. Flemish Bond: This alternates headers and stretchers within the same course. It is considered one of the most decorative bonds. While it takes more time to align, the result is a sophisticated, high-end look that adds value to any home project.

When choosing a bond, consider the thickness of your wall. A single-skin wall (one brick wide) is usually limited to stretcher bond. If you want a thicker, double-skin wall, English or Flemish bonds are necessary to “tie” the two rows of bricks together using the headers.

Troubleshooting: Fixing Common Masonry Mistakes

Even experienced DIYers run into issues. The key is catching them before the mortar cures. One of the most common problems is “floating” bricks. This happens when your mortar is too wet, causing the bricks to slide or sink under their own weight. If this happens, stop, add a bit more dry mix to your mortar, and wait for it to stiffen.

Another issue is “hollow joints.” This occurs when you don’t apply enough mortar to the perps. A hollow joint allows water to enter the wall, which can lead to freeze-thaw damage in the winter. Always ensure you are “buttering” the entire end of the brick, not just the edges.

If you find that your wall is leaning (out of plumb), don’t try to fix it all in one course. You can’t tilt a brick significantly without it looking obvious. Instead, make very tiny adjustments over the next three or four courses. If the lean is more than 5mm, it’s usually better to take the bricks down and start that section over.

Safety and Cleanup in the Workshop

Masonry involves heavy lifting and caustic materials. Wet mortar contains lime, which can cause chemical burns on your skin. Always wear alkali-resistant gloves and long sleeves. If you get mortar on your skin, wash it off immediately with vinegar (to neutralize the base) and then plenty of water.

Eye protection is non-negotiable when cutting bricks. Whether you are using a hammer and bolster or a power saw, small shards of ceramic can fly off at high speeds. Protect your vision so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor for years to come.

Finally, clean your workspace at the end of every session. Scrape the “snots” (excess mortar) off the floor and the wall face before they harden. Once mortar cures on the face of a brick, removing it often requires harsh acids that can discolor the masonry. A quick brush down with a stiff nylon brush when the mortar is “thumb-print hard” will give you those clean, professional joints.

Frequently Asked Questions About Course of Brickwork

How many bricks are in a standard course?

This depends on the length of your wall. For a standard 215mm brick with a 10mm joint, you will use approximately 4.5 bricks per linear meter for a single course. Always buy 10% extra to account for cuts and breakages.

Can I lay a course of brickwork in the rain?

It is best to avoid it. Rain can wash the lime out of the mortar, weakening the bond and causing “efflorescence” (white salty stains). If it starts raining, cover your fresh work with a plastic tarp to keep it dry while it sets.

How long should I wait between courses?

In most weather conditions, you can lay up to 5 or 6 courses in a single day. If you go higher than that, the weight of the top bricks might compress the wet mortar at the bottom. Let the wall “go off” (set) overnight before continuing the next day.

What is the best mortar mix for a DIY project?

A standard “General Purpose” mix is usually 6 parts sand to 1 part cement, plus a little bit of plasticizer to make it “creamy.” For projects requiring more strength, like retaining walls, a 4:1 mix is often recommended.

Summary of Key Takeaways

Building a wall is a marathon, not a sprint. By focusing on each course of brickwork as its own mini-project, you ensure that the final structure is level, plumb, and beautiful. Remember to keep your tools clean, your mortar consistent, and your string line tight.

Masonry is a skill that rewards patience. Don’t be afraid to pull a brick off and reset it if it doesn’t look right. The more you practice, the more you will develop a “feel” for the mortar and the weight of the trowel. This is the essence of the maker’s journey—turning raw earth and stone into something permanent.

Now it’s time to get out there and start your project. Whether it’s a small garden border or a new workshop foundation, apply these principles and you’ll create something you can be proud of for decades. Happy building!

Jim Boslice
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