How To Drill Out A Screw – Your Step-By-Step Guide To Removing
To drill out a screw, first, center punch the screw head to create a starting divot. Then, use a small, left-hand drill bit to bore into the screw. Often, the bit will catch and back the screw out. If not, switch to a screw extractor, tap it into the drilled hole, and turn counter-clockwise to remove the fastener.
Always wear safety glasses and secure your workpiece before beginning to ensure a safe and successful removal.
Picture this: you’re in the middle of a project, everything is going smoothly, and then BAM! A screw head strips, or worse, shears right off, leaving a stubborn shank stuck in your perfectly good material. It’s a frustrating moment that every DIYer, from beginner woodworkers to seasoned metalworkers, has faced. But don’t despair! This isn’t the end of your project; it’s just a temporary setback.
You’re here because you need to know how to drill out a screw, and you’ve come to the right place. We’ve all been there, staring at that mangled fastener, wondering if the project is doomed. But I promise you, with the right tools, a bit of patience, and a solid plan, you can tackle even the most stubborn screws.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know. We’ll cover identifying the problem, gathering the essential tools, preparing your workspace, and providing a step-by-step process for successful screw extraction. You’ll learn pro tips, troubleshooting advice, and, most importantly, how to stay safe while doing it. Get ready to reclaim your project and sharpen your DIY skills!
When to Drill Out a Screw: Identifying the Problem
Before you reach for the drill, it’s important to understand why you need to drill out a screw. Not every stubborn screw requires this drastic measure. Sometimes, a different approach might save you time and effort.
Stripped Screw Heads
This is perhaps the most common culprit. A stripped screw head occurs when the driver bit rounds out the recess in the screw head, preventing any further grip.
It often happens from using the wrong size bit, applying too much torque, or using a worn-out driver. You’ll notice your bit just spins in place without turning the screw.
Broken or Sheared Screws
Sometimes, a screw can snap off completely, leaving part of its shaft embedded in the material. This usually happens when the screw is overtightened, corroded, or made of a brittle material.
A broken screw can be particularly challenging, especially if it’s flush with or below the surface. You’re left with no head to grip onto.
Stuck or Rusted Fasteners
Screws exposed to moisture or chemicals can seize up due to rust or corrosion. This makes them incredibly difficult to turn, and trying to force them often leads to stripping or breaking.
These scenarios are prime candidates for drilling, as other methods like pliers or impact drivers might fail. Knowing when to escalate to drilling saves frustration.
Essential Tools for Drilling Out Screws
Having the right tools is half the battle when you need to drill out a screw. Don’t try to make do with substitutes; invest in quality tools for a cleaner, safer job.
The Right Drill and Bits
You’ll need a reliable drill, preferably a cordless model for flexibility, but a corded one works just fine. The key is control.
- Drill/Driver: A variable-speed drill is crucial. You’ll need slow speeds for precision.
- Left-Hand Drill Bits: These bits are designed to rotate counter-clockwise. As they drill into the screw, they can sometimes grab the screw and spin it out without needing an extractor. They are invaluable for this task.
- Standard Drill Bits: You’ll need these if the left-hand bit doesn’t work, or if you plan to drill the entire screw out. Start with a bit smaller than the screw’s shaft.
Screw Extractor Kits
These kits are specifically designed for removing broken or stripped fasteners. They are available in various sizes to match different screw diameters.
A typical kit includes a set of drill bits (sometimes left-hand) and extractors. The extractor bits have a reverse, tapered thread that bites into the pilot hole you drill in the screw.
Lubricants and Penetrating Oils
For rusted or seized screws, a good penetrating oil is your best friend. Products like WD-40 or PB Blaster can work wonders by breaking down rust and easing the screw’s grip.
Apply the lubricant and let it sit for a good 15-30 minutes, or even longer for severely rusted fasteners. This allows it to penetrate the threads.
Safety Gear is Non-Negotiable
Safety isn’t just a suggestion; it’s a requirement. Drilling metal, even small screws, can create flying shards and dust.
- Safety Glasses: Always wear eye protection. Metal fragments can cause serious injury.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from sharp edges and hot metal.
- Workpiece Clamps: Secure your material firmly to prevent it from shifting during drilling. A stable workpiece is a safe workpiece.
Preparing Your Workspace and the Stubborn Screw
Proper preparation can significantly increase your chances of success and minimize potential damage to your workpiece. Don’t rush this stage.
Secure Your Workpiece
Whether you’re working on a small piece of furniture or a large metal bracket, stability is key. Use clamps, a vise, or even specialized jigs to hold the item firmly in place.
Any movement during drilling can cause the drill bit to wander, potentially damaging the surrounding material or snapping the bit itself. A steady hand and a steady workpiece go hand-in-hand.
Clean and Lubricate
Remove any debris, rust, or paint from around the screw head. A wire brush can be helpful here. If the screw is rusted, apply a generous amount of penetrating oil.
Allow the oil to soak in for at least 15 minutes, or even longer for severely corroded fasteners. This vital step helps loosen the threads, making extraction much easier.
Creating a Pilot Mark with a Center Punch
This is a critical step, especially when dealing with a stripped screw head where the recess is already damaged. A center punch creates a small divot in the exact center of the screw.
This divot acts as a guide for your drill bit, preventing it from “walking” or skittering across the smooth surface of the screw head. Use a hammer to tap the punch firmly. For soft materials like wood, be gentle not to deform the surrounding area.
The Step-by-Step Process: How to Drill Out a Screw
Now for the main event. This section will guide you through the precise actions you need to take when you need to how to drill out a screw effectively and safely.
Step 1: Drilling the Pilot Hole
This is where precision matters. Choose a drill bit that is smaller than the screw’s shaft but large enough to accommodate your screw extractor.
- Select Your Bit: Start with a left-hand drill bit if you have one. If not, a standard drill bit will do. Ensure it’s slightly smaller than the core diameter of the screw you’re trying to remove.
- Set Your Drill Speed: Use a slow to medium speed. High speeds generate heat, which can harden the screw and dull your bit.
- Drill Straight and Steady: Place the drill bit into the center-punched mark. Apply firm, consistent pressure, keeping the drill perfectly perpendicular to the screw.
- Clear Chips: Periodically pull the bit out of the hole to clear metal shavings. This prevents the bit from binding and helps keep it cool.
- Left-Hand Bit Advantage: If using a left-hand bit, watch carefully. The screw may begin to turn counter-clockwise and back itself out as you drill. If it does, keep drilling slowly until it’s completely free.
Step 2: Using a Screw Extractor
If the left-hand drill bit didn’t do the trick, or if you started with a standard bit, it’s time for the extractor.
- Choose the Right Extractor: Select an extractor that matches the size of the pilot hole you just drilled. It should fit snugly.
- Insert the Extractor: Gently tap the extractor into the pilot hole with a hammer. You want it to bite firmly into the metal.
- Turn Counter-Clockwise: Attach a tap wrench or a suitable driver to the extractor. Slowly and firmly turn the extractor counter-clockwise.
- Maintain Pressure: As you turn, apply steady downward pressure. This helps the extractor bite deeper and prevents it from camming out.
- Remove the Screw: Continue turning until the screw begins to loosen and backs out of the material. This might require a bit of force, but be patient.
Step 3: When an Extractor Fails – Drilling Through
Sometimes, even with the best efforts, an extractor might fail, or the screw might be too stubborn. In these cases, you may need to drill out the entire screw.
This method involves drilling a hole large enough to effectively destroy the screw threads and allow the remaining parts to be removed. It’s a last resort, as it leaves a larger hole that will require repair.
- Increase Drill Bit Size: Gradually increase your drill bit size, step by step, until you are using a bit slightly larger than the screw’s shank diameter.
- Drill Out the Screw: Carefully drill through the entire screw, ensuring you stay centered. The goal is to remove all the screw material, leaving a clean hole.
- Clear Debris: Use a pick or magnet to remove any remaining screw fragments or metal shavings from the hole.
Step 4: Finishing Up and Repairing the Hole
Once the stubborn fastener is out, you’ll likely have a hole that needs attention.
- Clean the Area: Remove any metal shavings or debris. A vacuum cleaner or compressed air can be useful.
- Repairing the Hole:
- For Wood: Fill the hole with wood putty, epoxy, or a wooden dowel glued in place. Once dry, you can redrill a pilot hole for a new screw.
- For Metal/Plastic: You might need to tap the hole for a larger screw, use a threaded insert, or fill it with an appropriate epoxy before re-drilling.
- Consider a New Fastener: Use a new, slightly larger screw, or a screw of the same size with a new pilot hole, ensuring it has good grip.
Advanced Techniques and Troubleshooting
Even with the best instructions, you might encounter tricky situations. Here are some advanced tips and troubleshooting strategies.
Dealing with Different Materials (Wood, Metal, Plastic)
The material you’re working with significantly impacts your approach.
- Wood: Be careful not to splinter the wood. Use slower drill speeds and sharper bits. Wood filler or dowels are great for repair.
- Metal: Metal screws require more force and slower speeds. Use cutting oil to keep bits cool and prevent hardening of the screw. Hardened steel screws can be extremely difficult and may require carbide-tipped bits.
- Plastic: Plastic is soft. Use very low drill speeds and minimal pressure to avoid melting the plastic or stripping the new hole.
When the Screw is Flush or Below the Surface
If the screw head is completely gone or recessed, it presents a challenge.
Use a center punch to make a mark as close to the center as possible, even if it’s on the shaft. You might need to use a smaller pilot drill bit to start and gradually increase its size. For screws slightly below the surface, a small chisel or Dremel tool can sometimes expose enough of the shaft to get a grip with pliers before drilling.
Preventing Future Stripped Screws
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
- Use the Right Bit: Always match your driver bit to the screw head precisely.
- Apply Even Pressure: Keep steady, downward pressure on the driver to prevent it from camming out.
- Correct Torque: Don’t overtighten. Stop when the screw is snug.
- Pilot Holes: Always drill appropriate pilot holes, especially in hardwoods or metal.
- Lubricate New Screws: For dense materials, a little wax or soap on the screw threads can reduce friction.
Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Project
Working with power tools and sharp objects always carries risks. Prioritizing safety ensures that you complete your project without incident.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
Never skip your PPE. It’s there to protect you.
- Safety Glasses: As mentioned, these are mandatory. Metal shards can fly unexpectedly.
- Work Gloves: Protect against sharp edges, splinters, and heat.
- Hearing Protection: If using loud power tools for extended periods, ear protection is wise.
Proper Tool Handling
Knowing how to handle your tools correctly prevents accidents.
- Secure Your Work: Always clamp your workpiece firmly. A moving workpiece is a dangerous workpiece.
- Correct Drill Bit Selection: Use the right size and type of drill bit for the material and task.
- Controlled Speed: Start slow and increase speed gradually as needed. Never force the drill.
- Unplug/Remove Battery: Always unplug corded tools or remove the battery from cordless tools before changing bits or making adjustments.
Chemical Safety
Penetrating oils and lubricants are useful, but handle them with care.
Use them in a well-ventilated area. Avoid skin contact, and clean up any spills immediately to prevent slips or fire hazards. Always store chemicals according to manufacturer instructions.
Frequently Asked Questions About Drilling Out Screws
Here are some common questions DIYers ask when tackling a stubborn screw.
Can I use a regular drill bit to remove a stripped screw?
While you can use a regular drill bit to drill a pilot hole, it won’t extract the screw itself. A regular bit will only drill deeper. You’ll still need a screw extractor to remove the fastener once the pilot hole is drilled, or you’ll have to drill the entire screw out.
What if the screw extractor breaks inside the screw?
This is a tough situation. Extractor bits are made of hardened steel, making them very difficult to drill out. Your best bet is to try to carefully chip away at the broken extractor with a carbide-tipped punch or a diamond-tipped bit. If that fails, you might have to enlarge the hole around the broken screw and extractor, or consider cutting the surrounding material if possible.
How do I prevent drilling too deep?
Use a drill stop collar on your drill bit, or wrap a piece of electrical tape around the bit at the desired depth. This provides a visual or physical stop, preventing you from drilling further than necessary into your material.
Is it always necessary to drill out a screw?
No, not always. For stripped heads, sometimes a larger driver bit, a pair of vise grips, or even cutting a slot with a Dremel for a flathead screwdriver can work. Drilling is typically reserved for when these less invasive methods have failed, or when the screw is broken flush with the surface.
What’s the best way to repair the hole after removal?
For wood, wood putty, epoxy, or a glued-in dowel are excellent choices. For metal or plastic, epoxies designed for those materials, or tapping the hole for a threaded insert, are common solutions. Always ensure the repair material is fully cured before attempting to redrill or re-fasten.
Removing a stripped or broken screw can feel like a daunting challenge, but it’s a skill that every DIYer will eventually need. By following these steps and prioritizing safety, you’ll not only successfully extract that stubborn fastener but also gain valuable experience and confidence in your abilities. Remember, every project has its snags, and overcoming them is part of the satisfaction of DIY.
So, the next time you face a frustratingly stuck screw, don’t throw in the towel. Grab your tools, refer back to this guide, and tackle the problem head-on. You’ve got this! Keep learning, keep building, and always stay safe in your workshop.
