How To Get Out Rivets – The Ultimate Guide To Damage-Free Removal

Removing permanent fasteners can feel like a major roadblock when you are deep into a restoration or repair project. Unlike screws or bolts, rivets are designed to stay put forever, which makes the prospect of taking them apart feel a bit intimidating to the average DIYer.

The good news is that learning how to get out rivets is a straightforward process once you understand the mechanics of how they hold. With a few basic workshop tools and a steady hand, you can clear out old fasteners without leaving a single scratch on your workpiece.

In this guide, I will walk you through the most effective methods for rivet removal, from the precision of drilling to the brute force of the chisel. We will also cover the essential safety gear and pro tips that make the job faster and cleaner for any garage tinkerer.

Understanding the Different Types of Rivets

Before you grab your power tools, you need to know what you are up against. Not all rivets are created equal, and the method you choose depends heavily on the fastener’s design and material.

The most common type you will encounter in home improvement and automotive work is the blind rivet, often called a pop rivet. These have a hollow center and are usually made of aluminum or soft steel, making them relatively easy to remove.

On the other hand, solid rivets are common in structural metalwork and vintage machinery. These are solid pieces of metal that have been hammered into place, and they require a bit more “persuasion” to remove than their hollow counterparts.

Pop Rivets (Blind Rivets)

These consist of a rivet body and a mandrel. When installed, the mandrel is pulled through, expanding the body. These are very common in gutters, sheet metal work, and thin plastic assemblies.

Solid Aircraft-Style Rivets

These are the heavy hitters of the fastener world. They are often made of harder alloys and are used where high strength is required. You will need high-quality cobalt drill bits to tackle these effectively.

Drive Rivets

Drive rivets feature a pin that is hammered into the body to expand it. These are frequently found in masonry or heavy equipment. Removing these usually requires a two-step process of removing the pin first.

Essential Tools for the Job

You don’t need a specialized “rivet removal kit” to get the job done, though they do exist. Most of what you need is likely already sitting on your workbench or in your toolbox.

Having the right tools prevents material deformation and saves you from the frustration of a snapped drill bit. Here is my go-to list for any rivet removal task:

• Power Drill: A variable speed drill is best for maintaining control.
• Drill Bits: High-Speed Steel (HSS) or Cobalt bits. Ensure they are sharp.
• Center Punch: This is non-negotiable for accuracy.
• Hammer: A standard ball-peen or claw hammer will work.
• Cold Chisel: Useful for shearing off heads of larger rivets.
• Pin Punch: Used to drive out the remaining shank after the head is gone.
• Safety Glasses: Metal shards are sharp and fly everywhere.

Step-by-Step: how to get out rivets with a Drill

Drilling is the most common and precise way to handle this task. It works by removing the flared head of the rivet, allowing the rest of the fastener to be pushed through the hole.

Step 1: Mark the Center

Take your center punch and place it directly in the middle of the rivet head. Give it a firm tap with your hammer to create a small indentation. This prevents the drill bit from “walking” across the surface and scratching your project.

Step 2: Select the Correct Bit Size

Choose a drill bit that is the same size as the rivet’s shank (the part inside the hole), or slightly smaller. If you use a bit that is too large, you risk enlarging the hole, which makes installing a new rivet much harder later on.

Step 3: Drill with Steady Pressure

Apply moderate pressure and run your drill at a medium speed. You aren’t trying to drill through the entire piece of metal; you only need to drill deep enough to separate the head from the shank. Usually, the head will eventually spin or snap off and ride up the drill bit.

Step 4: Drive Out the Shank

Once the head is removed, use a pin punch and a hammer to tap the remaining part of the rivet out through the back. If it doesn’t move easily, you may need to drill a tiny bit deeper into the shank to weaken it further.

Alternative Methods: Using Grinders and Chisels

Sometimes a drill isn’t the best option. Maybe the rivet is made of hardened steel, or perhaps you are working in a tight space where a drill won’t fit. In these cases, we look toward mechanical shearing.

The chisel method is perfect for aluminum rivets or when you are working on something where the finish doesn’t have to be perfect. It is faster but carries a higher risk of “gouging” the base material if you aren’t careful.

Using a Cold Chisel

Position the edge of the cold chisel at the base of the rivet head, where it meets the surface of the material. Strike the chisel firmly with a hammer to shear the head off. Once the head is gone, use your punch to drive the rest out.

Using an Angle Grinder

If you have a long row of rivets to remove, an angle grinder with a flap disc or a grinding wheel is the fastest way. Lightly grind the heads down until they are flush with the surface. Be extremely careful not to grind into the base metal itself.

The “Pliers Twist” for Loose Rivets

If a rivet is already loose and spinning, drilling becomes nearly impossible. In this scenario, grab a pair of side cutters or needle-nose pliers. Grip the head firmly and try to snap it off or pull the mandrel through manually.

Working with Different Materials

The material the rivet is set into dictates how aggressive you can be. A technique that works on a steel trailer frame might destroy a delicate woodworking project or a thin fiberglass panel.

When working with wood or plastic, avoid the chisel method. The impact can easily crack or splinter the surrounding area. Stick to low-speed drilling and consider using a sacrificial block of wood behind the hole to prevent “blowout” when you punch the rivet through.

For stainless steel rivets, heat is your enemy. Stainless hardens when it gets hot, so use plenty of cutting fluid and a slow drill speed. If the bit gets too hot, it will dull instantly, and you’ll be stuck with a half-drilled fastener.

Safety Practices in the Workshop

I cannot stress this enough: metalwork produces tiny, razor-sharp “swarf” or chips. These can easily end up in your eyes or embedded in your skin. Always wear ANSI-rated safety glasses when removing rivets.

If you are using a grinder, wear a face shield and gloves. The sparks produced can also be a fire hazard, so ensure your workspace is clear of flammable materials like oily rags or sawdust. Keeping a clean shop is the first step toward a successful project.

Lastly, be mindful of what is behind the rivet. If you are drilling into a car door or a wall, ensure there are no wires, fuel lines, or glass in the path of your drill bit. A five-minute rivet job can turn into a five-hour repair if you nick a wiring harness.

Troubleshooting Common Rivet Removal Problems

Even for pros, things don’t always go according to plan. Here are a few common issues you might face when figuring out how to get out rivets that just won’t budge.

The Rivet is Spinning

When the drill bit catches, the whole rivet might start spinning in the hole. This prevents the bit from cutting. To fix this, try placing a piece of duct tape over the head to add friction, or use a pair of pliers to hold the back of the rivet while you drill.

The Drill Bit Snapped

This usually happens because of too much side pressure or a dull bit. If the bit is stuck inside the rivet, you may have to use a carbide-tipped punch to shatter the remains of the bit or carefully grind the rivet head down to release the tension.

The Hole is Now Oversized

If you slipped and enlarged the hole, don’t panic. You can often fix this by using a large-flange rivet or moving up to the next size of fastener. In some metalworking cases, you might need to weld the hole shut and re-drill it for a perfect fit.

Frequently Asked Questions About how to get out rivets

What size drill bit do I need for a 1/8 inch rivet?

For a standard 1/8 inch rivet, use a #30 drill bit or a standard 1/8 inch bit. If you want to ensure the head pops off without touching the hole walls, a slightly smaller bit can be used initially as a pilot hole.

Can I remove a rivet without a drill?

Yes, you can use a hammer and a cold chisel to shear the head off. Alternatively, you can use a hacksaw if the rivet head is accessible and has enough clearance to get the blade underneath it.

Is it possible to reuse a rivet?

No. Rivets are permanent, one-time-use fasteners. The removal process involves destroying the fastener’s structural integrity. You will always need a new rivet (or a bolt) to replace the one you removed.

How do I remove rivets from plastic without melting it?

Use a very sharp drill bit and a low RPM setting. High speeds create friction heat, which will melt the plastic around the rivet. Hand-turning the drill chuck for the last bit of the removal can also help maintain control.

Pro Tips for a Cleaner Finish

If you want to take your craftsmanship to the next level, focus on the details. After the rivet is out, the hole will likely have a small burr or a sharp edge. Use a deburring tool or a larger drill bit turned by hand to lightly chamfer the edge of the hole.

This small step ensures that your new fastener sits perfectly flush and prevents stress cracks from forming in the material over time. It is the difference between a “garage hack” and a professional-grade repair.

If you are working on a painted surface, you can protect the area by applying a layer of painter’s tape around the rivet before you start. This provides a small buffer in case your drill bit or chisel slips.

Taking Action on Your Project

Now that you know how to get out rivets using various methods, it’s time to get back into the workshop. Whether you are stripping down an old aluminum boat or replacing a bracket on a lawnmower, the principles remain the same: go slow, stay centered, and prioritize safety.

Don’t let a few permanent fasteners stop your progress. With the right approach, you can clear them out in seconds and move on to the more exciting parts of your build. Grab your center punch, put on your safety glasses, and show those rivets who’s boss!

Remember, the goal isn’t just to remove the fastener—it’s to preserve the integrity of your workpiece so your next step is as easy as the first. Happy tinkering, and stay safe in the shop!

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Jim Boslice

Jim Boslice is a power tool enthusiast who tests, reviews, and shares practical guides to help DIYers and professionals choose the right tools for every project.

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