How To Take Out A Rivet – Professional Techniques For Clean Removal

ByJim Boslice Metalworking & Fabrication

To remove a rivet efficiently, use a power drill with a bit slightly smaller than the rivet’s shank to drill through the center of the head until it pops off. For rivets that cannot be drilled, a hammer and cold chisel can be used to shear the head away before punching out the remaining pin.

Staring at a stubborn fastener can be one of the most frustrating parts of a restoration or repair project. Whether you are working on an old trailer, a piece of sheet metal, or a DIY furniture project, learning how to take out a rivet properly is a fundamental skill that every garage tinkerer needs to master.

You might be worried about gouging the surrounding material or leaving a jagged hole that is impossible to reuse. The good news is that with the right approach and a few common workshop tools, you can remove these “permanent” fasteners without breaking a sweat.

In this guide, we will walk through the most reliable methods used by pros to ensure a clean finish every time. From selecting the perfect drill bit to handling those annoying spinning rivets, you will gain the confidence to tackle any metalworking challenge in your shop.

Understanding Rivet Types and Your Removal Strategy

Before you grab your tools, you need to know what you are dealing with because not all rivets are created equal. Most DIYers encounter blind rivets, often called pop rivets, which are common in thin metal applications like gutters or automotive trim.

On the other hand, you might run into solid rivets, which are much tougher and typically found in structural work or vintage aircraft-style construction. These require a bit more muscle and precision because they lack the hollow center found in pop rivets.

Your strategy for fastener extraction depends entirely on the material of the rivet, which is usually aluminum, steel, or stainless steel. Aluminum is soft and easy to drill, while stainless steel requires high-quality bits and a lot of patience to avoid overheating the metal.

Essential Tools for Your Workshop

Having the right kit on your workbench makes the difference between a five-minute job and an afternoon of frustration. You likely already have most of these tools in your workshop setup, but a few specialized items can make the process much smoother.

  • Power Drill: A cordless or corded drill with a variable speed trigger is your best friend for this task.
  • Drill Bits: Use High-Speed Steel (HSS) or Cobalt bits; Cobalt is preferred if you are dealing with stainless steel or hardened fasteners.
  • Center Punch: This tool creates a small divot to keep your drill bit from “walking” across the metal surface.
  • Hammer and Cold Chisel: Essential for the manual shearing method if a drill isn’t an option.
  • Pin Punch: A thin, flat-tipped punch used to drive the remaining rivet shank out of the hole.

Don’t forget your safety gear, specifically impact-resistant eye protection. When a rivet head finally gives way, it can fly off at high speed, and small metal shavings are notorious for finding their way into unprotected eyes.

Step-by-Step: how to take out a rivet Using a Power Drill

The drilling method is the gold standard for how to take out a rivet because it is precise and minimizes the risk of expanding the original hole. Follow these steps to ensure you don’t damage your workpiece during the process.

1. Center the Rivet Head

Start by identifying the center of the rivet head; for pop rivets, there is usually a small hole where the mandrel was snapped off. Place your center punch directly in that hole and give it a firm tap with a hammer to create a starting point.

If you are working with a solid rivet, this step is even more critical because there is no natural guide for the bit. A deep, centered divot ensures that your drill bit stays perfectly aligned and doesn’t skip off and scratch your project.

2. Select the Correct Bit Size

Choosing the right bit is a “Goldilocks” situation; you want one that is just right. Pick a drill bit that is the same diameter as the rivet shank (the part inside the hole) or slightly smaller than the rivet head.

If the bit is too large, you risk drilling into the workpiece itself and enlarging the hole. If it is too small, you will only drill through the center without actually weakening the flange that holds the rivet in place.

3. Drill with Controlled Pressure

Apply steady, moderate pressure and run your drill at a medium speed. If you see smoke or discoloration, you are running too fast and generating too much heat, which can dull your bit or harden the rivet metal.

Drill just deep enough to penetrate the head; you will often feel a slight “pop” or see the head begin to spin. At this point, the head should either come off on the bit or be loose enough to be pried away with a flathead screwdriver.

4. Punch Out the Remaining Shank

Once the head is gone, the body of the rivet is still stuck in the hole. Take your pin punch and place it against the remaining metal, then tap it through with your hammer.

If the shank is stubborn, check to see if there are any burrs or flared edges holding it back. A quick tap from the opposite side can sometimes loosen the grip, allowing the fastener to drop out cleanly.

Alternative Method: The Hammer and Chisel Technique

Sometimes you don’t have access to power, or the rivet is in a spot where a drill simply won’t fit. In these cases, the manual shearing method is your best bet for a successful removal.

Position the edge of a sharp cold chisel at the base of the rivet head, where it meets the surface of the metal. Hold the chisel at a low angle to avoid gouging the underlying material while you strike it with a hammer.

The goal is to shear the head clean off the shank in one or two sharp blows. Once the head is removed, you can use a punch to drive the rest of the fastener through the hole just like you would with the drilling method.

Be careful when using this technique on thin sheet metal, as the force of the hammer can easily dent or deform the area around the hole. If the metal is thin, always try to support it from the back with a wooden block.

Dealing with “Spinning Rivets”

One of the most annoying hurdles you’ll face is the spinning rivet. This happens when the drill bit catches the metal, but the rivet itself isn’t tight enough in the hole to stay still, causing it to rotate with the drill.

To fix this, you need to create friction to hold the rivet in place. Try wedging a thin flathead screwdriver or a putty knife under the edge of the rivet head to apply upward pressure while you drill.

Alternatively, you can use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab the head if there is enough of a lip. If it still won’t stop spinning, you may have to switch to a grinding tool or a chisel to remove the head manually.

Pro Tips for Protecting Your Workpiece

When you are learning how to take out a rivet, your biggest fear is usually ruining the material you are trying to save. A few pro tricks can help you keep your project looking pristine throughout the extraction.

If you are worried about the drill bit slipping, place a piece of masking tape over the rivet before you start. This provides just enough texture to help the bit bite and protects the surrounding finish from minor scuffs.

For high-stakes projects, consider using a rivet removal tool. This is a specialized attachment for your drill that fits over the rivet head and guides the bit perfectly into the center, virtually eliminating the risk of error.

Always keep a small bottle of cutting oil nearby, especially when working with steel or stainless steel rivets. A single drop on the rivet head will lubricate the bit, reduce heat, and extend the life of your expensive drill bits.

Safety First: Protecting Yourself in the Shop

Metalworking always comes with risks, and rivet removal is no exception. Beyond eye protection, consider wearing mechanic’s gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal burrs and the edges of the chisel.

Be mindful of what is behind the rivet you are removing. If you are working on a vehicle or an appliance, there might be wires or fuel lines hidden behind the panel that a drill bit could easily pierce.

Always clear your workspace of metal shavings (swarf) after the job is done. These tiny spirals of metal are incredibly sharp and can easily get embedded in your skin or the soles of your shoes, tracking them into your house.

Frequently Asked Questions About how to take out a rivet

Can I remove a rivet with a screwdriver?

You cannot simply unscrew a rivet because it is a permanent mechanical fastener with no threads. However, you can use a flathead screwdriver as a pry bar to pop off a rivet head once it has been weakened by drilling or a chisel.

What size drill bit do I need for a 1/8 inch rivet?

For a 1/8 inch rivet, you should use a #30 drill bit or a standard 1/8 inch bit. If you want to be extra safe and avoid enlarging the hole, you can start with a slightly smaller bit, like a 7/64 inch, and then move up.

How do I remove rivets from plastic without melting it?

Removing rivets from plastic requires a low-speed drilling approach to prevent frictional heat from melting the plastic. It is often better to use a sharp chisel or side cutters to carefully snip the head off if the rivet is made of soft aluminum.

Is it possible to reuse a rivet hole?

Yes, as long as you have used the correct extraction technique and haven’t enlarged the hole. If the hole did get slightly stretched, you can usually move up to the next size of rivet or use a small bolt and nut instead.

What if the rivet is made of hardened steel?

Hardened steel rivets require Cobalt or Carbide-tipped drill bits. You must use a very slow drill speed and plenty of cutting fluid to prevent the bit from burning out before it even makes a dent in the fastener.

Final Thoughts for the DIY Enthusiast

Mastering the art of how to take out a rivet is a rite of passage for any serious DIYer. It transforms a daunting repair into a manageable task, allowing you to disassemble, fix, and rebuild with precision.

Remember that patience is your most valuable tool. Taking the extra thirty seconds to center punch the head or add a drop of oil will save you from the headache of a botched extraction or a damaged workpiece.

Now that you have the knowledge, head out to your garage and give it a shot. Whether you are restoring a classic car or just fixing a loose handle on a metal cabinet, you have the skills to get the job done right. Happy building!

Jim Boslice
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