How To Use Rivet Nut Tool – Create Permanent Threads In Thin Metal

ByJim Boslice Metalworking & Fabrication

To use a rivet nut tool, drill a hole slightly larger than the insert, thread the rivet nut onto the tool’s mandrel, insert it into the hole, and squeeze the handles to collapse the nut against the material. Once set, unthread the mandrel to leave behind a permanent, threaded socket perfect for bolts.

This process, often called “blind setting,” allows you to add strong machine threads to sheet metal, square tubing, or plastic where you cannot reach the backside to place a traditional nut.

Have you ever tried to bolt a bracket onto a thin piece of sheet metal or a hollow square tube, only to realize there is no way to reach the back to hold a nut? It is a frustrating bottleneck that stops many DIY projects in their tracks, leading to stripped-out self-tapping screws or weak connections.

Learning how to use rivet nut tool equipment changes the game for your workshop, allowing you to install professional-grade threaded inserts into almost any thin material. Whether you are building a custom van interior, mounting a tool rack, or repairing a lawnmower, this technique provides a rock-solid mounting point that won’t vibrate loose.

In this guide, I will walk you through the essential mechanics of these tools, the step-by-step installation process, and the pro-level tricks I’ve learned from years of metalworking and garage tinkering. By the end, you will have the confidence to add permanent threads to your projects with precision and ease.

Understanding the Rivet Nut System

Before we pick up the tool, we need to understand what we are actually working with. A rivet nut, often called a Rivnut or a threaded insert, is a hollow, internally threaded fastener that functions like a heavy-duty pop rivet.

Unlike a standard rivet that simply joins two pieces of material, a rivet nut stays open in the center. This allows you to thread a bolt directly into the fastener after it has been installed. It is the ultimate solution for “blind” holes where the backside of the workpiece is inaccessible.

These fasteners come in various materials, including aluminum, steel, and stainless steel. For most home workshop projects, aluminum is easy to set, while steel offers superior strength for automotive or structural applications. You must match the material of the insert to the demands of your specific project.

The Anatomy of the Tool

The tool itself looks similar to a standard pop-rivet gun but functions quite differently. Instead of a pulling jaw, it features a threaded mandrel and a nosepiece. The mandrel acts as the bolt that pulls the insert, while the nosepiece provides the counter-pressure to collapse the fastener.

Most DIY kits come with interchangeable mandrels for different thread sizes, such as M5, M6, or 1/4-20. Choosing the right size is the first step in mastering how to use rivet nut tool kits effectively. If you use the wrong mandrel, you risk stripping the threads before the insert even reaches the hole.

There are also different tool styles, ranging from small “pliers” styles for light-duty work to long-handled lever tools for larger steel inserts. If you plan on doing a lot of work with 3/8-inch or M10 fasteners, I highly recommend the long-handled version to save your forearms from fatigue.

Essential Tools and Materials for the Job

To get started, you need more than just the tool itself. Precision is the key to a fastener that doesn’t spin in the hole later on. You will need a high-quality drill bit set, preferably cobalt or titanium-coated, to clean through metal without wandering.

I also recommend keeping a deburring tool or a larger drill bit handy. Removing the “burr” or the sharp edge from the hole ensures the flange of the rivet nut sits perfectly flush against the surface. This prevents the fastener from wobbling or failing under a load.

Finally, always have a sample piece of your project material nearby. Never try a new size or material on your finished workpiece first. Use a scrap piece to dial in the tension of the tool and ensure your hole size is tight enough to prevent the nut from spinning.

How to Use Rivet Nut Tool: A Step-by-Step Guide

Mastering the how to use rivet nut tool process requires a mix of steady hands and a “feel” for the material. Follow these steps to ensure a perfect seat every single time you use the tool in your shop.

Step 1: Size the Hole Correctly

The most common mistake beginners make is drilling a hole that is too large. If the hole is loose, the rivet nut will spin when you try to tighten a bolt into it later. Check the manufacturer’s chart for the exact drill bit size required for your specific insert.

For example, a standard M6 rivet nut often requires a 9mm hole. If you only have SAE bits, you might need to find the closest match that provides a snug fit. Drill the hole slowly, use cutting oil if you are working with thick steel, and keep the drill perfectly perpendicular to the surface.

Step 2: Prepare the Mandrel

Select the mandrel that matches the internal threads of your rivet nut. Thread the nut onto the mandrel until the head of the nut is touching the nosepiece of the tool. Most tools have an adjustment nut on the nosepiece that allows you to control how much of the mandrel is exposed.

You want the mandrel to be fully engaged with all the threads inside the nut. This ensures that when you apply pressure, the force is distributed evenly across the threads. If you only thread it in halfway, you will likely strip the insert and ruin the mandrel.

Step 3: Insert and Set the Fastener

Push the rivet nut into your pre-drilled hole. It should be a tight enough fit that you might need a light tap to get the flange seated against the metal. Hold the tool firmly and ensure it is square to the workpiece.

Squeeze the handles together with a steady, firm motion. You will feel resistance as the “crush zone” of the nut begins to collapse on the backside of the material. Stop squeezing once the handles feel significantly harder to move or when they bottom out according to your tool’s settings.

Step 4: Unthread the Tool

Once the nut is set, do not pull the tool away. Instead, use the rear knob or lever on the tool to unthread the mandrel from the newly installed nut. If the nut was set correctly, it should remain rock-solid in the hole while the mandrel spins out freely.

Inspect the flange. It should be tight against the surface with no visible gaps. If it feels loose or spins, you may need to increase the stroke length of your tool and give it one more slight squeeze, though you must be careful not to over-tighten and snap the mandrel.

Choosing the Right Rivet Nut for Your Project

Not all inserts are created equal. When you are learning how to use rivet nut tool hardware, you will encounter different body styles. The two most common are smooth-body and knurled-body inserts.

Smooth-body nuts are cheaper but rely entirely on friction to stay in place. I almost always recommend using knurled-body rivet nuts. The small ridges on the outside of the nut bite into the edge of the hole as the fastener collapses, providing much higher resistance to spinning.

You also need to consider the “grip range.” Every rivet nut is designed for a specific material thickness. If you use a nut designed for 1/8-inch steel on a piece of thin 22-gauge sheet metal, it won’t collapse enough to grip the surface, leaving you with a loose, rattling fastener.

Material Compatibility

Always try to match the fastener material to your workpiece to avoid galvanic corrosion. If you are installing threads into an aluminum boat or truck body, use aluminum rivet nuts. If you use stainless steel inserts in aluminum, the two metals can react over time, leading to oxidation and failure.

For heavy-duty workshop jigs or automotive frames, zinc-plated steel is the gold standard. It offers the strength needed to torque down bolts without the threads stripping. Just keep in mind that steel requires much more physical force to set than aluminum does.

Common Pitfalls and Pro Troubleshooting

Even if you know the basics of how to use rivet nut tool devices, things can go wrong. The most common issue is the “spinning nut.” This happens when the hole is too big or the nut wasn’t squeezed hard enough to bite into the material.

If a nut starts spinning, you can sometimes save it by using a bolt and a stack of washers. Thread a bolt into the nut, hold the nut with pliers if possible, and tighten the bolt against the washers to further collapse the insert. However, it is usually better to drill it out and start over with a fresh hole.

Another common problem is breaking the mandrel. This usually happens when the tool is held at an angle or when you apply too much force to a small mandrel (like an M3 or M4). Always keep the tool straight and listen to the feedback from the handles; if it feels like it’s “bottomed out,” stop squeezing.

Working in Tight Spaces

Sometimes you need to install a thread in a corner where the long handles of a lever tool won’t fit. In these cases, you can use a manual “nut-and-bolt” method. You simply use a high-grade bolt, a nut, and two washers to manually pull the insert into place with two wrenches.

While this is slower than using the actual tool, it is a great emergency technique for field repairs. It proves that the concept of the rivet nut is simple, even if the dedicated tool makes the job ten times faster and more consistent.

Real-World Applications for the DIYer

Once you have mastered how to use rivet nut tool techniques, you will find uses for it everywhere. In the garage, it is perfect for mounting power strips or air hose reels to metal studs. In the automotive world, it’s the only way to properly mount fender flares or roof racks.

Woodworkers also benefit from this tool. While these are designed for metal, you can use them in dense hardwoods or plywood for specialized jigs. By drilling a slightly undersized hole and using a bit of epoxy, a rivet nut can provide a permanent thread in a wooden jig that won’t wear out like a wood screw would.

For those working on home restoration, these tools are excellent for fixing stripped-out threads on metal door frames or aluminum window tracks. Instead of trying to tap new threads into thin metal, you simply enlarge the hole and install a rivet nut for a repair that is actually stronger than the original.

Essential Safety Practices

Safety is paramount in “The Jim BoSlice Workshop.” When using a rivet nut tool, the primary risk is eye injury from flying metal shards or a snapping mandrel. Always wear ANSI-approved safety glasses during the drilling and setting process.

Because these tools require significant hand pressure, be mindful of your pinch points. Keep your fingers away from the hinges and the area where the handles meet. If you are using a large lever-style tool, ensure your workpiece is securely clamped so it doesn’t shift and cause the tool to slip.

Finally, be aware of what is behind the material you are drilling. Since you are working on “blind” holes, it is easy to accidentally drill into a wiring harness, fuel line, or brake line inside a vehicle wall. Always use a drill stop or a piece of tape on your bit to prevent over-penetration.

Frequently Asked Questions About Rivet Nut Tools

Can I use a rivet nut tool on plastic?

Yes, but you must be careful. Standard rivet nuts can crack brittle plastic. It is best to use “plus-nuts” or “jack-nuts”, which are a variation of rivet nuts that expand into a large “X” shape on the back, spreading the load over a wider area to prevent cracking.

How do I remove a rivet nut if I mess up?

To remove one, you simply drill through the center of the flange with a bit that is the same size as the original hole. Once the flange is drilled away, the rest of the nut will fall into the cavity, or you can push it through with a punch.

Do I need to use Loctite on the bolts?

While the rivet nut itself stays in place through mechanical tension, the bolt you screw into it can still vibrate loose. I recommend using a medium-strength thread locker (blue) if the assembly will be subject to high vibrations, such as on a vehicle or a generator frame.

What is the difference between a Rivnut and a Nutsert?

Technically, “Rivnut” and “Nutsert” are brand names that have become generic terms for threaded inserts. While there are slight design differences in the collapse mechanism, for most DIY applications, they are used interchangeably to describe the same process.

Conclusion: Elevate Your DIY Game

Learning how to use rivet nut tool equipment is a rite of passage for any serious garage tinkerer or metalworker. It moves your projects away from “hacky” solutions like sheet metal screws and toward professional, engineered results. The ability to create a clean, threaded hole in a hollow tube or thin plate opens up a world of design possibilities.

Remember to prioritize the fit of your hole and the quality of your inserts. Start with aluminum for practice, and move to steel once you have developed a feel for the tool’s feedback. With a bit of patience and the right technique, you will be adding permanent threads to everything in your workshop.

Now, grab your drill, find some scrap metal, and start practicing. There is no substitute for hands-on experience when it comes to mastering the “squish” of a perfect rivet nut installation. Stay safe, work hard, and keep building better!

Jim Boslice
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