Metal Roofs On Brick Houses – The Ultimate Aesthetic And Durability
Metal roofs are an ideal pairing for brick homes because they match the 50-year-plus lifespan of masonry while providing a modern, high-contrast aesthetic. The key to a successful installation is using a reglet-cut counter-flashing system to ensure a watertight seal where the metal panels meet the brick walls.
You have likely noticed that brick homes possess a certain timeless quality that other siding materials just can’t match. However, even the sturdiest brick bungalow or colonial eventually needs a roof replacement that honors its structural integrity. When considering metal roofs on brick houses, you are looking at a combination that offers unparalleled durability and a significant boost in curb appeal.
I promise that by the end of this guide, you will understand exactly why this pairing works, which materials suit your home best, and how to handle the tricky transition points where metal meets masonry. We are going to dive deep into the technical side of flashing, material selection, and the long-term maintenance benefits of this upgrade.
We will preview the specific types of metal profiles that complement traditional brickwork and the “pro-tips” for ensuring your workshop or home stays dry for the next half-century. Whether you are a hands-on DIYer or a homeowner looking to talk shop with a contractor, this breakdown covers everything you need to know.
Why metal roofs on brick houses are a winning combination
When we talk about metal roofs on brick houses, we are discussing two of the most durable building materials ever created. Brick is famous for lasting over a century with minimal care, and a high-quality metal roof can easily reach the 50-to-70-year mark. Matching these two means you are essentially building a “forever home” that requires very little exterior maintenance.
Beyond the longevity, the thermal mass of brick combined with the reflective properties of metal creates an energy-efficient powerhouse. While the brick holds a steady internal temperature, the metal panels reflect solar radiation away from the structure. This duo can significantly lower your cooling costs during those brutal summer months in the workshop.
From an aesthetic standpoint, the visual “weight” of brick provides a solid foundation for the sleek, clean lines of metal. Whether you choose a matte black standing seam or a classic bronze corrugated panel, the texture of the brick provides a beautiful organic contrast to the industrial finish of the steel or aluminum.
The Structural Advantage: Weight and Support
One of the biggest advantages of metal roofs on brick houses is the weight factor. Metal is significantly lighter than traditional clay tiles or even heavy architectural asphalt shingles. This puts less stress on your load-bearing brick walls and the timber framing underneath.
If you are renovating an older brick home, switching to metal can sometimes eliminate the need for structural reinforcement. Since brick walls are rigid and don’t flex like wood framing, having a lightweight roof reduces the risk of settling cracks in your mortar joints over time.
Choosing the Right Metal Profile for Your Masonry
Not all metal roofs look the same, and picking the right profile is crucial for matching the “vibe” of your brickwork. For a modern or contemporary brick home, standing seam panels are the gold standard. The concealed fasteners and vertical ribs create a high-end, architectural look that screams quality.
If you have a more rustic or farmhouse-style brick house, you might consider corrugated metal or 5-V crimp panels. These have exposed fasteners, which are more budget-friendly and offer a traditional, rugged appearance. Just ensure you use high-quality EPDM washers to prevent leaks at the screw points.
For those who love the look of traditional materials but want the benefits of metal, stone-coated steel shingles are a fantastic middle ground. These mimic the look of slate or wood shakes but provide the impact resistance and fire rating of a heavy-duty metal system. They look particularly stunning on red-clay brick homes.
Color Coordination with Brick Tones
Brick comes in a massive variety of colors, from deep reds and oranges to muted tans and greys. When selecting your metal color, look at the undertones of your brick. Red brick often looks best with dark greys, blacks, or deep bronzes to provide a sharp, clean contrast.
If your brick has more of a tan or “sand” tone, consider earth-toned metal like copper or forest green. A light grey metal roof on a white-washed brick house can create a stunning “coastal farmhouse” look that is very popular right now. Always grab a few metal samples and hold them against your actual brick in different lighting conditions.
Critical Flashing Techniques for Brick-to-Metal Transitions
The most common failure point on any roof is where it meets a vertical wall, and this is especially true for brick. Because brick is porous and has mortar joints, you cannot simply slap a piece of metal against it and call it a day. You need a two-part flashing system to ensure water doesn’t sneak behind the panels.
First, you install the “base flashing” or “apron flashing” that sits on top of the metal panels. Then, you must install the “counter-flashing” which is tucked into the brick itself. This creates a “shingle effect” where water running down the brick wall is forced out onto the metal roof rather than behind it.
To do this right, you’ll need an angle grinder with a diamond tuck-pointing blade. You cut a groove (called a reglet) about 1 inch deep into the mortar joint. The top edge of your counter-flashing is bent and inserted into this groove, then secured with lead wedges or masonry anchors before being sealed with high-grade polyurethane caulk.
Handling Chimneys and Dormers
Chimneys are essentially big brick towers poking through your roof, and they require the same reglet-cut flashing technique. I always recommend using crickets (small peaked structures) behind the chimney to divert water around the brick. This prevents “ponding” where the metal meets the masonry.
When working around dormers, ensure your flashing extends at least 4 inches up the wall behind the brick veneer or siding. Using a butyl tape sealant between the flashing and the metal roof panel provides an extra layer of protection against wind-driven rain that might try to push water uphill.
Material Selection: Steel, Aluminum, or Copper?
Steel is the most common choice for metal roofs on brick houses because of its strength and cost-effectiveness. Most modern steel roofing is “Galvalume,” which is steel coated in a zinc and aluminum alloy. This provides excellent corrosion resistance and holds paint finishes like Kynar 500 extremely well.
If you live near the coast, aluminum is the way to go. Brick holds up well to salt air, but steel can eventually rust if the coating is scratched. Aluminum is naturally rust-resistant and will likely outlast the person who installs it. It is slightly softer than steel, so it may be more prone to denting from large hail.
Copper is the “luxury” option that looks incredible on historic brick buildings. Over time, it develops a green patina that complements the earthy tones of old-world masonry. It is the most expensive option, but it requires no painting and can last well over 100 years if installed by a master tinsmith.
Underlayment: The Unsung Hero
Don’t skimp on the underlayment. For a metal roof, I always recommend a high-temperature synthetic underlayment. Metal gets much hotter than asphalt, and standard felt paper can actually stick to the bottom of the metal panels or degrade over time.
A “peel-and-stick” ice and water shield is also a great idea along the eaves and in the valleys. This provides a secondary waterproof barrier that is essential for brick homes in colder climates where ice dams can occur. The smoother the underlayment, the easier the metal panels will slide during thermal expansion.
Installation Challenges and DIY Solutions
If you are a DIYer tackling this, the biggest challenge is thermal expansion. Metal moves a lot as it heats and cools. If you pin the panels down too tightly without allowing for movement, the roof will “oil can” (ripple) or pull the fasteners loose. This is why standing seam systems with sliding clips are superior for long runs.
Cutting the metal panels requires the right tools. Never use an abrasive saw blade, as it will “burn” the paint finish and lead to premature rusting. Use offset aviation snips for detail work and a specialized “metal cutting” circular saw blade for long, straight rips. Always wear cut-resistant gloves; those edges are like razors.
Safety is paramount when working on a roof. Brick houses often have steeper pitches, so a proper fall protection harness and roof anchors are non-negotiable. If you are uncomfortable with heights or the complexity of the flashing cuts, this is a great project to sub-out to a pro while you handle the workshop upgrades below.
Fastener Placement and Torque
If you are using an exposed-fastener system, you must be precise. Over-tightening the screws will crush the neoprene washer, causing it to crack and leak within a few years. Under-tightening will allow water to seep under the washer. You want the washer to be slightly compressed but not “mushroomed” out from the sides of the screw head.
Always drive your screws into the flats of the panel, not the ribs, unless the manufacturer specifically instructs otherwise. Driving into the flats ensures a tighter seal against the roof deck. Use a dedicated screw gun with a depth-sensing nosepiece to get consistent results across the entire roof surface.
Common Mistakes to Avoid with Metal Roofing and Brick
The most expensive mistake people make is dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic corrosion). If you use copper flashing with a steel roof, or even use the wrong type of fasteners, the metals will react and eat each other alive. Always ensure your fasteners, flashing, and panels are compatible.
Another common pitfall is ignoring the ventilation. Brick homes are often built to be “breathable,” and if you seal the top of the house with a metal roof without a ridge vent, you can trap moisture in the attic. This leads to mold on your rafters and can even cause the mortar in your upper brick courses to degrade from the inside out.
Finally, don’t forget the gutters. Metal roofs shed water much faster than asphalt. You may need to upgrade to 6-inch K-style gutters or add snow guards if you live in a snowy climate. Without snow guards, a massive “roof avalanche” could dump hundreds of pounds of snow onto your landscaping or porch in seconds.
Sealant Selection for Masonry
Do not use cheap silicone from the big-box store for your brick-to-metal joints. Silicone doesn’t bond well to masonry over the long term. Instead, use a polyurethane-based sealant like Vulkem or SikaFlex. These remain flexible for decades and are specifically designed to stick to both metal and porous brick.
Frequently Asked Questions About Metal Roofs on Brick Houses
Are metal roofs on brick houses noisier than asphalt?
This is a common myth. If you have a standard attic space with insulation, you won’t notice a difference in sound levels during a rainstorm. The roof deck and the insulation act as sound dampeners. In fact, many people find the “drumming” of rain on a metal roof to be quite soothing if they are in a workshop with exposed rafters.
Do metal roofs attract lightning to a brick home?
No, metal roofs do not increase the likelihood of a lightning strike. Lightning is looking for the path of least resistance to the ground, regardless of the roofing material. If your house is struck, the metal roof can actually be safer because it is a non-combustible material, unlike wood shakes or asphalt shingles.
How long will a metal roof actually last on a brick house?
When installed correctly, a Galvalume or aluminum roof will easily last 50 years. Copper can last over 100. Since the brick walls of the house are likely to last just as long, this is often the last roof you will ever have to install on the property.
Can I install a metal roof over my existing shingles on a brick house?
In many cases, yes. This is called a “re-roof.” You can install 1×4 wood furring strips (purlins) over the old shingles and then fasten the metal to the strips. However, I always recommend a full “tear-off” to inspect the roof deck for rot and to ensure the flashing against the brick is done correctly from scratch.
Final Thoughts on Enhancing Your Brick Home
Investing in metal roofs on brick houses is a smart move for any homeowner who values durability and design. The structural strength of masonry combined with the weather-shielding power of metal creates a building envelope that is nearly impenetrable. It’s a project that pays for itself in both home value and peace of mind.
Remember, the secret is in the details. Take your time with the reglet cuts, choose a color that makes your brick pop, and never compromise on the quality of your underlayment or sealants. Your home is your biggest investment—treat it to a roof that matches its character.
Now that you have the blueprint for success, get out there and start planning your upgrade. Whether you’re hiring a crew or picking up the snips yourself, you’re on your way to a tougher, better-looking workshop or home. Stay safe, work hard, and enjoy the satisfaction of a job done right!
