Welding Cheat Sheet – Master Mig, Tig, And Stick Settings Fast

ByJim Boslice Metalworking & Fabrication

A welding cheat sheet is a quick-reference guide that provides the correct voltage, amperage, and wire feed speed for different metal thicknesses and welding processes. Using these standardized settings allows DIYers to achieve strong penetration and clean beads while minimizing common errors like burn-through or excessive spatter.

We have all been there—standing in the garage with a fresh piece of steel and a welder, wondering exactly where to set the dials. Getting the settings wrong usually leads to a messy pile of “pigeon poop” welds or, worse, burning a hole straight through your expensive project.

The good news is that you do not have to rely on guesswork or “gut feeling” every time you strike an arc. Having a reliable welding cheat sheet taped to your machine or workbench ensures you have a professional starting point for every joint you tackle.

In this guide, we will break down the essential parameters for MIG, Stick, and TIG welding so you can spend less time fiddling with knobs and more time building. Let’s dive into the technical details that will make your next fabrication project a success.

Why Every DIYer Needs a Reliable Welding Cheat Sheet

Welding is a balance of heat, speed, and material science. If your heat is too high, the metal melts away; if it is too low, the weld just sits on top without fusing the base metals properly.

A welding cheat sheet acts as a roadmap for your machine. It takes the variables of metal thickness and electrode type and translates them into actionable numbers you can set on your welder’s interface.

For the hobbyist, this consistency is the key to building structural integrity in projects like workbenches, trailer repairs, or custom furniture. It removes the frustration of trial and error and helps you develop muscle memory for what a “good” weld feels like.

The Essential Welding Cheat Sheet for MIG Settings

MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding is the most popular choice for home shops because it is relatively easy to learn. However, it requires a precise balance between voltage and wire feed speed (WFS).

If your wire speed is too fast, the wire will “push” against the metal and cause spatter. If it is too slow, the arc will burn back into the contact tip, potentially damaging your torch.

MIG Settings for Mild Steel (Gas Shielded)

For standard 0.030-inch solid wire with a 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas mix, use these general starting points:

  • 18 Gauge (1/20″): Set voltage to 15-16V and wire speed to 140-150 IPM.
  • 14 Gauge (5/64″): Set voltage to 17-18V and wire speed to 180-200 IPM.
  • 1/8-inch: Set voltage to 18-19V and wire speed to 210-230 IPM.
  • 3/16-inch: Set voltage to 20-21V and wire speed to 280-300 IPM.
  • 1/4-inch: Set voltage to 22-23V and wire speed to 350+ IPM (multi-pass may be required).

Fine-Tuning Your MIG Arc

Listen to the sound of the weld. A perfect MIG weld should sound like sizzling bacon. If it sounds like loud pops, your wire speed is likely too high or your voltage is too low.

Always ensure your work clamp is attached to clean, shiny metal. A poor ground connection will make even the most accurate settings on your welding cheat sheet perform poorly.

Stick Welding Parameters for Structural Projects

Stick welding (SMAW) is the king of outdoor repairs and heavy structural work. Unlike MIG, you only have one primary setting to worry about: amperage.

The challenge with Stick is choosing the right electrode for the job. Each rod has a specific “sweet spot” for current, and using the wrong polarity can lead to a weak, porous weld.

Common Electrode Amperage Ranges

Here is a quick look at the most common DIY electrodes and their recommended settings:

  • 6011 (Deep Penetration): 1/8″ rod at 75-125 Amps. Best for rusty or painted metal.
  • 6013 (General Purpose): 1/8″ rod at 80-130 Amps. Great for clean sheet metal and frames.
  • 7018 (Low Hydrogen): 1/8″ rod at 110-165 Amps. The standard for high-strength structural joints.

Understanding Polarity (DCEP vs. DCEN)

Most Stick welding is done in DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive). This puts more heat into the rod, helping it melt smoothly and penetrate deeply into the base metal.

If you are working on very thin sheet metal, you might switch to DCEN (Electrode Negative). This puts more heat into the metal and less into the rod, which helps prevent burn-through on delicate pieces.

TIG Welding Chart for Precision and Beauty

TIG welding (GTAW) offers the ultimate control, but it is also the most complex. You have to manage the torch, the filler rod, and often a foot pedal simultaneously.

Because TIG is often used for aesthetic projects or thin materials like aluminum and stainless steel, precision is non-negotiable.

TIG Settings for Mild Steel

  • 1/16-inch Steel: 50-80 Amps, 1/16″ Tungsten, 1/16″ Filler Rod.
  • 1/8-inch Steel: 100-140 Amps, 3/32″ Tungsten, 3/32″ Filler Rod.
  • 1/4-inch Steel: 180-250 Amps, 1/8″ Tungsten, 1/8″ Filler Rod.

Tungsten Selection and Preparation

For most DIY steel work, a 2% Ceriated (Grey) or 2% Lanthanated (Blue) tungsten is a great all-purpose choice. It holds a point well and starts the arc easily.

Always grind your tungsten so the scratches run lengthwise toward the tip. Grinding in a circular motion around the diameter will cause the arc to wander and become unstable.

Safety First: Gear Up Before Striking an Arc

No matter how good your settings are, welding is dangerous without the right protection. The UV radiation from a welding arc can cause arc eye (essentially a sunburn on your eyeballs) in seconds.

Always wear a high-quality auto-darkening helmet set to the correct shade (usually shade 10-13 for most DIY work). Protect your skin with a flame-resistant jacket and leather welding gloves.

Never weld on galvanized steel without a respirator. The zinc coating releases toxic fumes that can cause “metal fume fever,” a miserable flu-like condition that can lead to long-term health issues.

Troubleshooting Common Weld Defects

Even with a comprehensive welding cheat sheet, things can go wrong. Recognizing defects early allows you to grind them out and start over before the joint fails.

Porosity (Tiny Holes)

Porosity looks like a sponge inside your weld bead. It is usually caused by a lack of shielding gas. Check your tank levels, look for kinks in the gas hose, or shield your work area from wind.

Undercut (Grooves at the Edges)

Undercut is a groove melted into the base metal right next to the weld bead. It weakens the joint significantly. This is usually caused by excessive heat or moving the torch too quickly.

Lack of Fusion

If the weld bead is just “sitting” on top of the metal without blending in, you have a lack of fusion. This is a “cold weld.” Increase your voltage or amperage to ensure the base metal actually melts.

How to Build Your Own Custom Welding Cheat Sheet

While general charts are helpful, every machine behaves a little differently. A 110V hobbyist welder will not punch as hard as a 220V industrial unit at the same settings.

Spend an afternoon doing test coupons. Take scraps of the metal thicknesses you use most often and run beads at various settings. Label them with a paint marker.

Once you find the “perfect” setting for 1/8-inch angle iron on your specific machine, write it down. Creating a personalized welding cheat sheet for your specific shop setup is the fastest way to achieve professional results.

Frequently Asked Questions About Your Welding Cheat Sheet

Where should I keep my welding cheat sheet?

The best place is taped directly to the side of your welding machine or inside the wire drive compartment. Many modern welders actually have a basic chart printed inside the door by the manufacturer.

Can I use the same settings for aluminum and steel?

No. Aluminum requires much higher heat because it dissipates thermal energy very quickly. You will also need different shielding gas (100% Argon) and, for MIG, a spool gun or Teflon liner.

What happens if I use the wrong wire diameter?

Using 0.035 wire on thin sheet metal often leads to burn-through because the wire requires more heat to melt. Always match your wire size to the thickness of the material and the amperage range of your machine.

How do I know if my gas flow is correct?

For most indoor MIG welding, a flow rate of 20-25 cubic feet per hour (CFH) is standard. If you see bubbles in your weld, increase the flow slightly, but don’t go too high or you will create turbulence that sucks in oxygen.

Conclusion: Taking Your Fabrication to the Next Level

Mastering the art of welding is a journey of constant improvement. While it takes years to perfect the “hand-eye” coordination required for stack-of-dimes TIG welds, the technical setup shouldn’t be what holds you back.

By using this welding cheat sheet as your starting point, you eliminate the biggest variable in the shop. You can focus on your torch angle, travel speed, and puddle control, knowing that the machine is dialed in for success.

Grab some scrap metal, set your dials, and start practicing. The more you arc out, the more intuitive these settings will become. Before you know it, you will be tackling complex builds with the confidence of a pro. Happy welding!

Jim Boslice
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