Whirlpool Gold Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing

ByJim Boslice Home & Kitchen

The most common causes for a Whirlpool Gold refrigerator freezer not freezing are dirty condenser coils, a malfunctioning evaporator fan, or a failed defrost system component. Start by cleaning the coils under the unit and checking if the fan is blowing air; if these are clear, you likely have a faulty defrost heater or thermostat.

Check the door seals for gaps and ensure the compressor is running. If you hear a clicking sound, the start relay may be burnt out and needs immediate replacement.

It is incredibly frustrating to open your freezer and find your favorite pint of ice cream turned into a soup. When your whirlpool gold refrigerator freezer not freezing properly, it can feel like a race against time to save your groceries from the trash bin.

You might think a warm freezer means it is time to go shopping for a brand-new appliance. However, most of these issues are well within the reach of a determined DIYer with a few basic hand tools and a little bit of patience.

In this guide, we are going to walk through the troubleshooting process step-by-step. We will cover everything from simple maintenance to testing electrical components so you can get your kitchen back in working order today.

Immediate Steps: The Simple Fixes You Might Overlook

Before we start pulling the refrigerator away from the wall, let’s look at the obvious culprits. Often, a whirlpool gold refrigerator freezer not freezing is simply a victim of poor airflow or a door that was left slightly ajar.

Check the vents inside the freezer compartment. If you have a large box of frozen pizza or a massive bag of ice blocking the evaporator vents, the cold air cannot circulate. Move items away from the back wall to ensure the fan can push air throughout the entire unit.

Next, inspect the door gaskets. Take a dollar bill and close the freezer door on it; if you can pull the bill out with no resistance, your seal is weak. Clean the gaskets with warm, soapy water to remove any sticky residue that might be preventing a tight seal.

Checking the Temperature Settings

It sounds simple, but check your digital display. Sometimes, during a cleaning or while reaching for a snack, the temperature buttons get bumped. Ensure the freezer is set to 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 Celsius) for optimal performance.

If your Whirlpool Gold has a “Power Outage” indicator flashing, it might be stuck in a glitch state. Unplug the unit for 10 minutes to reset the control board and see if the cooling cycle resumes normally once you plug it back in.

Cleaning the Condenser Coils for Maximum Efficiency

One of the most common reasons for a whirlpool gold refrigerator freezer not freezing is a thick layer of dust on the condenser coils. These coils dissipate heat as the refrigerant flows through them; if they are insulated by pet hair and dust, the system cannot cool down.

On most Whirlpool Gold models, these coils are located at the very bottom behind a plastic toe kick plate. Snap the plate off and look underneath with a flashlight. If you see what looks like a thick grey blanket, you have found the problem.

Use a long-handled coil brush and your shop vacuum to gently pull the debris out. Be careful not to bend the delicate fins. Once the coils are clean, the compressor won’t have to work nearly as hard, and you will likely see a significant drop in temperature within a few hours.

Vacuuming the Rear Components

While you have the vacuum out, pull the fridge away from the wall. Remove the lower back panel to access the machine compartment. Dust can also accumulate around the condenser fan motor, which sits next to the compressor.

If that fan is stuck or moving slowly because of hair and grit, the compressor will overheat and shut down prematurely. Give it a quick blast of compressed air or a light vacuuming to keep the air moving over the mechanical parts.

Testing the Evaporator Fan Motor

If the compressor is running and the coils are clean, but you don’t feel any air moving in the freezer, the evaporator fan is likely the culprit. This fan is responsible for pulling air over the cold coils and pushing it into the cabinet.

To access it, you will need to remove the contents of your freezer and take out the back panel inside the compartment. This usually requires a 1/4-inch nut driver or a Phillips head screwdriver. Once the panel is off, you will see the fan motor and the evaporator coils.

Try to spin the fan blade with your finger. If it feels stiff or doesn’t spin freely, the bearings are shot. If it spins fine but doesn’t turn on when the fridge is plugged in, you will need to test it for electrical continuity using a multimeter.

How to Use a Multimeter for Fan Testing

Safety first: always unplug the appliance before touching any wires. Set your multimeter to the “Ohms” setting. Disconnect the wire harness from the fan motor and touch the probes to the motor terminals.

If the meter shows “OL” (Open Line) or an infinite reading, the internal windings of the motor are broken. You will need to order a replacement fan motor specifically for your Whirlpool Gold model number to restore the airflow.

Solving Whirlpool Gold Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing with Defrost Troubleshooting

When you have a whirlpool gold refrigerator freezer not freezing, but you notice a heavy buildup of frost on the back wall, you are likely dealing with a defrost failure. In a healthy fridge, a heater turns on several times a day to melt ice off the coils.

If the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, or the control board fails, the ice will grow until it completely chokes out the airflow. This leads to a situation where the coils are freezing cold, but the air cannot pass through them to cool your food.

You can test the defrost heater the same way you tested the fan. Look for the long glass tube or metal rod at the bottom of the evaporator coils. If it looks charred or shows no continuity on your multimeter, it is burnt out and must be replaced.

The Defrost Thermostat (Bi-Metal Switch)

The defrost thermostat is a small circular component clipped to the top of the evaporator coils. It tells the heater when to turn off so the freezer doesn’t get too hot. If this switch is bulging or leaking a waxy substance, it is defective.

A trick to testing this is that it must be cold to show continuity. If the coils are frosted over, the switch should be closed (showing continuity). If it shows an open circuit while it is covered in ice, the switch is faulty and is preventing the heater from ever turning on.

Inspecting the Start Relay and Compressor

If you hear a distinct “click” every few minutes followed by a humming sound that quickly stops, your compressor is struggling to start. This is a classic symptom of a failed start relay, which is a small plastic device plugged into the side of the compressor.

Pull the relay off and give it a shake. If it rattles like a box of broken glass, the ceramic disk inside has shattered. This is one of the cheapest and easiest fixes for a refrigerator that has stopped cooling entirely.

However, if the relay is fine and the compressor is scorching hot to the touch but not running, the compressor itself may have an internal mechanical failure. Replacing a compressor is a job for a licensed HVAC professional, as it involves handling pressurized refrigerant.

Is the Compressor Vibrating?

Put your hand on the compressor (the large black tank in the back). It should have a steady, light vibration and feel warm but not burning hot. If it is dead silent and the fans are running, it isn’t getting power or the internal motor has failed.

Check the wiring leading to the compressor for any signs of scorching or melted insulation. In many DIY scenarios, simply replacing the start relay with a “Hard Start Kit” can give an older compressor the extra boost it needs to get running again.

The Role of the Thermistor and Control Board

The thermistor is a sensor that monitors the air temperature and sends that data to the main control board. If the thermistor is “lying” to the board, the fridge might think it is already cold enough and refuse to turn on the cooling cycle.

You can test the thermistor with a multimeter by measuring its resistance. As the temperature changes, the resistance should change in a predictable way according to the manufacturer’s chart. If the resistance stays the same regardless of temperature, the sensor is bad.

If all individual components (fan, heater, relay, sensors) test positive for continuity, the “brain” of the unit—the main electronic control board—is likely the issue. Look for burnt spots or leaking capacitors on the board, which is usually housed in a plastic box on the back or top of the unit.

Replacing the Control Board

Replacing a control board is a simple “plug and play” operation. You just need to ensure you have the exact part number for your specific Whirlpool Gold model. Take photos of the wiring before disconnecting anything so you can match them up perfectly on the new board.

While the control board is expensive, it is much cheaper than buying a new refrigerator. Always make sure the unit is unplugged before accessing the control board housing to avoid a dangerous electrical shock.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Gold Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing

Why is my fridge cold but my freezer is warm?

This usually indicates an airflow problem or a defrost issue. If the evaporator fan isn’t moving air into the freezer, or if the coils are completely blocked by ice, the freezer will lose its “chill” even if the fridge stays somewhat cool.

How long should it take to get cold after a repair?

After a repair or a deep cleaning of the coils, it can take anywhere from 12 to 24 hours for the refrigerator to reach its stable operating temperature. Avoid opening the doors frequently during this period to allow the cold air to build up.

Can I manually defrost my Whirlpool Gold?

Yes, if the coils are iced up, you can unplug the unit and leave the doors open for 24 hours. Use towels to soak up the water. This is a temporary fix that will get it cooling again, but the ice will return if you don’t fix the underlying defrost component failure.

What does a clicking sound from the back mean?

A clicking sound almost always points to a failing start relay on the compressor. The relay is trying to kickstart the motor, failing, and then clicking off as the thermal protector resets. This is a very common DIY fix.

Final Thoughts for the DIY Homeowner

Dealing with a whirlpool gold refrigerator freezer not freezing is a challenge, but it is one that you can likely conquer with a systematic approach. By starting with the basics—like cleaning the coils and checking the seals—you eliminate the most common “hidden” problems before spending money on parts.

Remember to always prioritize safety by disconnecting the power before performing any electrical tests. A multimeter is your best friend in this process, allowing you to stop guessing and start knowing exactly which part has failed. Most of these components are held in by simple clips or screws, making the physical replacement quite easy.

Don’t be intimidated by the complexity of modern appliances. At its heart, your Whirlpool Gold is a series of simple switches and motors working together. Take it one step at a time, and you will have your freezer back to sub-zero temperatures in no time. You’ve got this!

Jim Boslice
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