Whirlpool Refrigerator Clicking Noise Not Cooling

ByJim Boslice Home & Kitchen

If your Whirlpool refrigerator is clicking and not cooling, the most common culprit is a failed start relay or a faulty capacitor. This prevents the compressor from starting, causing it to overheat and trigger the “click” sound of the overload protector.

You can usually fix this by replacing the start relay device located on the side of the compressor for under $30, saving you a costly service call.

You are standing in your kitchen, and you hear a distinct, rhythmic clicking sound coming from the back of your appliance. It sounds like a small switch flipping every few minutes, followed by silence instead of the usual hum of a running motor. Dealing with a whirlpool refrigerator clicking noise not cooling can feel like a disaster, especially when you realize your milk is getting warm and the ice is melting.

I have spent years tinkering in the garage and fixing household appliances, and I can tell you that this specific sound is a classic symptom with a very logical cause. It is usually the sound of the compressor trying to start and failing, which triggers the thermal overload protector to shut it down for safety. The good news is that you do not necessarily need a new fridge or an expensive technician to get things running again.

In this guide, I am going to walk you through the diagnostic process just like we would approach a project on the workbench. We will identify the faulty components, test them with a multimeter, and perform the replacement safely. By the end of this post, you will have the confidence to tackle this repair and save yourself a few hundred dollars in the process.

Understanding the Whirlpool Refrigerator Clicking Noise Not Cooling Issue

When you encounter a whirlpool refrigerator clicking noise not cooling, you are essentially listening to a mechanical “cry for help” from the heart of the cooling system. The compressor is the pump that moves refrigerant through the coils; if it cannot start, the fridge cannot get cold. The clicking is the overload protector, a safety device that cuts power to the compressor when it draws too much current or gets too hot.

Most Whirlpool models use a Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) relay to help the compressor kick over. Inside this relay is a small ceramic disk that can shatter or burn out over time. When this happens, the compressor struggles to start, draws massive amperage, and the overload protector “clicks” off to prevent a fire or total motor burnout. This cycle repeats every few minutes as the protector cools down and tries again.

While the start relay is the primary suspect, other issues can mimic these symptoms. A failing run capacitor, which provides the extra electrical “oomph” needed for the motor, or even a seized compressor motor itself can cause the same clicking. We will use a process of elimination to find the exact part that has failed so you aren’t just throwing money at the problem.

Essential Tools and Safety Precautions

Before we dive into the guts of the machine, we need to set up our workspace properly. Just like when you are welding or using a table saw, safety is the absolute priority. You are dealing with electricity and pressurized refrigerant lines, so follow these steps carefully before touching any internal components.

  • Unplug the Refrigerator: Never work on a live appliance. Pull the plug from the wall outlet and ensure the cord is visible so no one accidentally plugs it back in while you are working.
  • Provide Ample Light: Use a high-quality LED work light or a headlamp. The compressor area at the bottom back of the fridge is dark and cramped.
  • Wear Work Gloves: The metal back panels and condenser fins can be razor-sharp. Protect your hands from cuts while reaching into tight spaces.
  • Safety Glasses: It is rare, but if a capacitor were to fail or a line were to nick, you want your eyes protected.

For tools, you will need a few basics from your workshop. Grab a nut driver set (usually 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch), a flat-head screwdriver, and most importantly, a digital multimeter. A multimeter is the only way to move from “guessing” to “knowing” when it comes to electrical failures. If you don’t have one, it is a worthy investment for any DIYer’s toolbox.

Accessing the Compressor and Start Components

To get to the source of the whirlpool refrigerator clicking noise not cooling, you need to move the refrigerator away from the wall. Be careful not to scratch your flooring; I usually lay down a piece of thin plywood or heavy cardboard to slide the feet across. Once you have access to the back, you will see a large metal or plastic access panel at the bottom.

Remove the screws holding this panel in place and set them in a magnetic tray so they don’t go missing. Behind this panel, you will see the compressor, which looks like a black, football-sized metal tank. To the side of the compressor, there is a plastic cover or a wire bale holding the electrical components in place. This is where the start relay and capacitor live.

Carefully pop off the plastic cover using your flat-head screwdriver. You will see a small block (the relay) plugged directly onto three metal pins protruding from the side of the compressor. There may also be a larger, cylindrical run capacitor attached to it. Take a photo with your phone before disconnecting anything so you know exactly where the wires go during reassembly.

Testing the Start Relay and Capacitor

Now that the parts are exposed, we can perform the “shake test.” This is a classic trick among appliance repair pros. Pull the start relay off the compressor pins and give it a gentle shake near your ear. If you hear a rattling sound, like broken glass inside, the ceramic disk has shattered. This is a 100% confirmation that the relay is dead and needs replacement.

If it doesn’t rattle, we need to use the multimeter. Set your meter to the Ohms (resistance) setting. Place the probes into the holes where the relay connects to the compressor pins. You should see a low resistance reading (typically between 3 and 12 ohms). If the meter shows “OL” (Open Loop) or infinite resistance, the internal circuit is blown.

Don’t forget to check the run capacitor if your model has one. Set your multimeter to the capacitance setting (measured in microfarads or µF). Check the reading against the rating printed on the side of the capacitor. If the reading is significantly lower than the rating, or if the capacitor looks “bulged” or leaky, it is toast and could be the reason your compressor isn’t starting.

Cleaning the Condenser Coils for Better Performance

While you have the back panel off and the fridge pulled out, you should address a common contributing factor. Dirty condenser coils are often the silent partner in a whirlpool refrigerator clicking noise not cooling scenario. When these coils are matted with dust and pet hair, the compressor has to work much harder and run much hotter to shed heat.

This excess heat can cause the start relay to fail prematurely or cause the compressor to overheat and trigger that clicking sound even if the relay is technically still “good.” Grab your shop vac with a brush attachment and carefully suck away the debris from the coils. You can also use a long-handled coil brush to get into the tight crevices.

Cleaning the coils once every six months is one of the best ways to extend the life of your appliance. It reduces the strain on the motor and can even lower your monthly electricity bill. Think of it like changing the oil in your truck; it’s a simple piece of maintenance that prevents a catastrophic engine failure down the road.

How to Replace the Whirlpool Start Relay

Replacing the part is the easiest part of the job. Once you have confirmed the relay is faulty, you need to order the correct replacement. Whirlpool uses several different styles, so use your model number (usually found on a sticker inside the fridge door) to find the exact part. Many DIYers choose a “3-in-1” hard start kit if the compressor is old, but I usually recommend sticking with the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts for the best fit.

  1. Disconnect Wires: Use needle-nose pliers to pull the wire connectors off the old relay. Do not pull on the wires themselves; pull on the metal spade connectors.
  2. Inspect the Pins: Look at the three pins on the side of the compressor. If they are charred or corroded, clean them gently with a bit of fine-grit sandpaper or a wire brush to ensure a good electrical connection.
  3. Install the New Relay: Plug the new relay onto the compressor pins. It should fit snugly. If your model has a separate capacitor, plug it into the new relay as it was on the old one.
  4. Reattach Wires: Slide the wire connectors back onto the spade terminals of the new relay. Refer to the photo you took earlier to ensure they are in the correct positions.
  5. Secure the Cover: Replace the plastic protection cover and the wire bale. This is important because it protects the electrical connections from moisture and dust.

Once everything is buttoned up, it is time for the moment of truth. Plug the refrigerator back in. You should hear the click of the relay followed immediately by the steady hum of the compressor motor. If the fridge starts running and stays running, you have successfully solved the problem.

When the Problem is the Compressor Itself

Sometimes, despite our best efforts, a whirlpool refrigerator clicking noise not cooling indicates a terminal problem. If you replace the start relay and capacitor but the clicking continues, the compressor motor may be “locked up.” This means the internal mechanical parts have seized, and no amount of electrical help will get it moving.

You can test for a “short to ground” using your multimeter. Touch one probe to a compressor pin and the other to the metal body of the compressor (scuff a bit of paint off to get a good connection). If you get a resistance reading, the motor is shorted out. This is a non-DIY repair because it involves cutting into the sealed refrigerant system.

Replacing a compressor is expensive—often costing $500 to $800. For an older refrigerator, this is usually the point where I advise homeowners to look into a new unit. However, if your fridge is relatively new, check your warranty. Many Whirlpool models have a 5-year or even 10-year warranty specifically on the “sealed system,” which includes the compressor.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Refrigerator Clicking Noise Not Cooling

Why does my fridge click but the light is still on?

The lights and the cooling system are on different circuits. The clicking means the compressor’s start circuit has failed, but the main control board and interior lights are still receiving power. This confirms the fridge is getting electricity, but the motor can’t utilize it.

How much does a start relay cost?

Generally, a replacement Whirlpool start relay costs between $15 and $40 depending on whether you buy an OEM part or a generic version. It is one of the most affordable repairs you can make on a major appliance.

Can I use a hard start kit on my Whirlpool fridge?

Yes, a hard start kit (like a Supco RCO410) can provide an extra boost to an aging compressor. However, if your fridge is still under warranty, using non-standard parts might void it. I prefer using the original relay style unless the compressor is very old and struggling to turn over.

Is it safe to leave a clicking refrigerator plugged in?

It is not recommended. While the overload protector is doing its job to prevent a fire, the constant heat cycling can eventually damage the compressor or even the wiring. If you hear constant clicking, unplug the unit until you can perform the repair.

Final Thoughts for the DIY Homeowner

Taking on a whirlpool refrigerator clicking noise not cooling repair is a fantastic way to sharpen your DIY skills. It moves you beyond basic carpentry or painting and into the world of mechanical diagnostics. Most of the time, this issue is just a simple part failure that you can handle in under an hour with about $30 in parts.

Remember to stay organized, keep your safety at the forefront, and don’t be afraid to use your multimeter to verify your findings. There is a great sense of satisfaction in hearing that compressor hum back to life, knowing you saved your food and your hard-earned money. Keep tinkering, keep learning, and don’t let a little clicking noise get the best of your workshop spirit!

Jim Boslice
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