Whirlpool Refrigerator Overload Relay – Fix Your Clicking Compressor

There is nothing quite as frustrating as walking into your kitchen or garage workshop and realizing your refrigerator has stopped cooling. You might hear a distinct “click” every few minutes followed by silence, which is a classic sign of a hardware failure. Most homeowners assume the worst—a dead compressor—but the reality is often a much cheaper and simpler fix.

I have spent years tinkering with appliances in the shop, and I can tell you that the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay is one of the most common failure points in modern cooling systems. This small plastic component is responsible for kick-starting the compressor and protecting it from electrical damage. When it fails, your fridge becomes a very expensive cupboard, but you can get it running again in under thirty minutes.

In this guide, I am going to walk you through exactly how to diagnose, test, and replace this part yourself. We will cover the tools you need, the safety precautions that are non-negotiable, and the professional tricks to ensure your repair lasts for years. Let’s get your workshop or kitchen back to peak performance.

What is a Whirlpool Refrigerator Overload Relay?

To understand why your fridge isn’t cooling, you first need to understand the gatekeeper of the system. The whirlpool refrigerator overload relay is a combination device usually consisting of a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) thermistor and a bi-metal overload protector. Its job is to provide a temporary boost of electricity to the compressor’s start windings to get the motor spinning.

Once the compressor is up to speed, the relay effectively “shuts off” that extra boost. If the compressor struggles to start or draws too many amps, the overload side of the component heats up and trips a small internal switch. This is the “click” you hear—it is the sound of the relay cutting power to prevent the compressor motor from burning itself out.

In many Whirlpool models, this part is often integrated into a single “start box” that plugs directly onto the side of the compressor. Over time, the heat generated by the electrical resistance wears down the internal components. Eventually, the ceramic disk inside cracks or the bi-metal strip loses its tension, leading to a total failure of the cooling cycle.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Whirlpool Refrigerator Overload Relay

Before you start tearing things apart, you need to confirm that the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay is actually the culprit. Identifying these specific symptoms will save you from buying parts you don’t need or misdiagnosing a more complex sealed-system issue.

The Infamous Clicking Sound

The most common symptom is a loud, metallic click coming from the back of the fridge every 2 to 5 minutes. This happens because the relay attempts to start the compressor, fails, and then the overload protector trips to prevent overheating. After the bi-metal strip cools down, it resets, and the cycle repeats indefinitely.

The Refrigerator is Warm but the Lights are On

If your interior lights work and the control panel is responsive, but the temperature is rising, the “brains” of the fridge are likely fine. This indicates that the problem is localized to the mechanical cooling circuit. Since the compressor is the heart of that circuit, a faulty relay prevents the heart from beating.

The Compressor is Hot to the Touch

If you carefully feel the compressor (the large black tank at the bottom rear), it may feel very hot even though it isn’t vibrating or humming. This occurs because the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay is sending some current through the windings, but not enough to actually turn the motor. Warning: Be extremely careful when touching a compressor, as they can reach temperatures high enough to cause burns.

Tools and Safety Gear for the DIY Repair

One of the best things about this repair is that it doesn’t require a specialized technician’s kit. Most of these items are already sitting on your workbench. However, working with appliances requires a safety-first mindset to avoid electrical shock or damage to the unit’s control board.

• Nut Driver or Screwdriver: Most Whirlpool rear panels are held on by 1/4-inch hex head screws or Phillips head screws.
• Needle-Nose Pliers: These are essential for pulling wire connectors off the relay without damaging the fragile terminals.
• Digital Multimeter: This is the only way to 100% confirm electrical failure if the “shake test” is inconclusive.
• Work Gloves: The edges of the metal access panels and the condenser fins can be razor-sharp.
• Flashlight: The bottom of a refrigerator cabinet is a dark, dusty place.

Safety Note: Always unplug the power cord before beginning any work. Additionally, many Whirlpool units use a run capacitor attached to the relay. Capacitors can store a dangerous electrical charge even when the fridge is unplugged. If you see a plastic cylinder attached to the relay, handle it with care and avoid touching the metal terminals.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Your Whirlpool Refrigerator Overload Relay

Now that we have identified the problem and gathered our tools, it is time to get to work. Follow these steps carefully to ensure a professional-grade repair. If you feel resistance at any point, stop and re-evaluate; these parts are plastic and can be brittle.

Step 1: Access the Compressor Compartment

Pull the refrigerator away from the wall so you have enough room to work comfortably. Use your nut driver or screwdriver to remove the screws holding the lower rear access panel in place. Once the panel is off, you will see the compressor—the large, black, dome-shaped component. Take a moment to vacuum out any dust or pet hair; a clean condenser coil helps the new relay last longer.

Step 2: Remove the Relay Cover

On the side of the compressor, there is usually a plastic cover or a wire bale (a metal clip) holding the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay in place. Use your flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the clip off or pop the plastic tabs. Be careful not to bend the copper refrigerant lines nearby, as a leak there is a much more expensive problem to fix.

Step 3: Disconnect the Wiring

Before you pull anything off, take a photo of the wiring with your phone. You need to know exactly which wire goes to which terminal. Using your needle-nose pliers, gently pull the wire connectors off the relay. Always pull by the metal connector, never the insulated wire itself, to prevent the wire from snapping out of the crimp.

Step 4: Remove the Old Relay

The relay is plugged directly onto three metal pins (terminals) on the compressor. Firmly grasp the relay housing and pull it straight away from the compressor. It might require a bit of wiggling, but it should slide off. If there is a separate capacitor attached to the side of the relay, slide it off and set it aside; you will likely need to reuse it with the new part.

Step 5: Install the New Part

Align the holes on your new whirlpool refrigerator overload relay with the pins on the compressor. Push it firmly until it is seated flush against the compressor housing. Reattach the capacitor and the wiring according to the photo you took earlier. Finally, snap the protective cover back on and secure the rear access panel.

How to Test the Relay with a Multimeter

If you want to be a true workshop pro, you don’t just “parts-swap”—you diagnose. Testing the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay with a multimeter ensures that you aren’t replacing a good part when the real issue might be a failed compressor motor or a control board glitch.

First, try the “Shake Test.” Pick up the old relay and shake it near your ear. If you hear a rattling sound like a box of broken crackers, the internal ceramic disk has shattered. This is a guaranteed failure. However, if it doesn’t rattle, it could still be electrically dead.

To test with a multimeter, set your dial to the Ohms (Ω) setting. Place your probes into the two holes where the relay connects to the compressor’s “Start” and “Run” pins. A healthy relay should show a low resistance reading (usually between 3 and 12 Ohms). If the multimeter shows “OL” (Open Line) or an infinite reading, the internal circuit is broken, and the part is defective.

You should also check the overload portion. This is the part with the single wire terminal. Place one probe on the wire terminal and the other on the side that touches the compressor pin. You should have continuity (a reading near 0 Ohms). If it is open, the bi-metal strip inside has likely burned out or is stuck in the “tripped” position.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid During Installation

Even a simple job can go sideways if you aren’t paying attention to the details. I’ve seen plenty of DIYers make these mistakes in the shop, and they usually end up costing more time and money in the long run.

Using the Wrong Part Number

Whirlpool makes hundreds of refrigerator models. While many relays look identical, they have different resistance ratings and amperage limits. Using a relay designed for a smaller compressor on a large French-door model will cause the new part to burn out within days. Always search for the part using your refrigerator’s specific model number, found on a sticker inside the fridge door or behind the kickplate.

Ignoring the Capacitor

Many people replace the relay but don’t realize the run capacitor is also failing. If the capacitor is bulging, leaking fluid, or has “crusty” terminals, replace it alongside the relay. A weak capacitor puts extra strain on the new relay, significantly shortening its lifespan.

Forgetting to Clean the Condenser Coils

Heat is the enemy of electronics. If your condenser coils (the black grid or “S” shaped tubes) are covered in dust, the compressor has to work twice as hard to reject heat. This causes the compressor to run hotter, which in turn causes the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay to cycle more frequently. While you have the back panel off, give those coils a good cleaning with a brush and vacuum.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Refrigerator Overload Relays

How much does a Whirlpool refrigerator overload relay cost?

The part itself is relatively inexpensive, typically ranging from $15 to $50 depending on whether you buy an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part or a high-quality aftermarket equivalent. This is significantly cheaper than the $300 to $500 a professional repair service would charge for the visit and labor.

Can I use a “Hard Start Kit” instead of the original relay?

A “Hard Start Kit” or “3-in-1 Starter” is a universal component that replaces the relay, overload, and capacitor. While these are great for older compressors that are struggling to turn, they can sometimes bypass safety features on newer, computer-controlled Whirlpool models. Use them as a last resort or for a workshop fridge, but stick to OEM-style parts for your primary kitchen unit if possible.

How long should a new overload relay last?

If the compressor is in good health and the coils are kept clean, a new relay should last another 5 to 10 years. However, if the relay fails again within a few months, it is a strong indicator that the compressor motor is drawing too much current due to internal wear, suggesting the fridge may be nearing the end of its life.

What if the relay doesn’t fix the clicking sound?

If you replace the relay and the clicking continues, the compressor itself likely has a “grounded winding” or is mechanically seized. You can test this by checking for continuity between the compressor pins and the metal housing of the compressor. If you find continuity to the ground, the compressor is dead, and it is usually more cost-effective to buy a new refrigerator.

Final Thoughts on Your DIY Repair

Taking on a refrigerator repair can feel intimidating, but the whirlpool refrigerator overload relay is one of those projects that perfectly balances effort and reward. By spending a few minutes diagnosing the issue and performing the swap yourself, you save hundreds of dollars and keep a perfectly good appliance out of the landfill.

Remember to keep your workshop area clean, work methodically, and always prioritize electrical safety. Once you hear that compressor hum back to life and feel the cold air flowing, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you handled the job like a pro. Whether it’s a garage beer fridge or the main family unit, keeping your cooling system in top shape is a vital skill for any serious DIYer. Now, grab your tools and get that fridge back in the game!

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Jim Boslice

Jim Boslice is a power tool enthusiast who tests, reviews, and shares practical guides to help DIYers and professionals choose the right tools for every project.

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