Whirlpool Refrigerator Ptc Relay – Diagnose And Fix A Clicking

ByJim Boslice Home & Kitchen

If your refrigerator is warm and making a rhythmic clicking sound every few minutes, the whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay is likely the culprit. You can verify a failure by removing the relay from the compressor and shaking it; if it rattles like a box of broken glass, the ceramic disk inside has shattered and requires immediate replacement.

Replacing this part is a straightforward DIY task that involves unplugging the unit, removing the rear access panel, and swapping the old relay for a new one, typically costing under $30 and taking less than 20 minutes.

Finding your refrigerator warm and hearing a persistent clicking sound from the back is a frustrating experience for any homeowner. You might worry that the expensive compressor has died, potentially leading to a costly appliance replacement or a massive repair bill. However, more often than not, the issue is a small, inexpensive component known as the whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay that has simply worn out over time.

I have spent years tinkering in the garage and maintaining home systems, and I can tell you that this is one of the most satisfying “quick fixes” you can perform. It doesn’t require a degree in electrical engineering, just a few basic tools and a bit of patience. In this guide, I will walk you through the diagnostic process so you can be certain of the problem before spending a dime on parts.

We are going to dive deep into how this component works, how to test it with a multimeter, and the exact steps to get your fridge back to ice-cold temperatures. By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to tackle this repair safely and efficiently, keeping your food fresh and your wallet full.

Understanding the Role of the PTC Relay

The PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) relay is a small but vital electronic device attached to the side of your refrigerator’s compressor. Its primary job is to provide a momentary electrical boost to the start winding of the compressor motor. Think of it like the ignition switch in your car; it helps the motor get spinning from a dead stop before bowing out and letting the run winding take over.

Inside the relay is a small ceramic disk that increases its electrical resistance as it heats up. When the thermostat calls for cooling, electricity flows through this disk to the start winding. As the disk heats up almost instantly, its resistance skyrockets, effectively cutting off the power to the start winding while the compressor continues to run on the main circuit.

If this ceramic disk cracks or burns out, the compressor cannot start. It will try to kick on, draw too much current, and then the overload protector will click off to prevent a fire. This cycle repeats every few minutes, which is that “clicking” sound you hear when your fridge is struggling.

Signs Your whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay Has Failed

Recognizing the symptoms of a bad relay can save you hours of unnecessary troubleshooting. The most common sign is a refrigerator that is no longer cooling, even though the lights inside still work. You may notice the freezer is thawing first, or the internal temperature is slowly climbing into the “danger zone” for food safety.

The hallmark symptom is a distinct audible click coming from the bottom rear of the unit. This happens when the compressor tries to start but fails, causing the thermal overload switch to trip. You will hear a hum for a few seconds, followed by a “snap” or “click,” and then silence for several minutes until the cycle repeats.

Another definitive sign is the “shake test.” When you remove a faulty whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay, you can often hear pieces of the shattered ceramic disk rattling inside the plastic housing. If you hear that rattle, there is 100% certainty that the part is dead and needs to be swapped out for a new one.

Visual Cues and Burning Smells

Sometimes, you don’t even need to shake the part to know it is bad. If you pull the relay off and see scorched plastic or smell a faint aroma of burnt electronics, the internal components have likely overheated. This often happens due to age or power surges in the home.

Checking for Compressor Heat

If the relay is failing, the compressor housing may feel extremely hot to the touch. This occurs because the internal motor is trying to turn but is stalled, generating massive amounts of heat. Be careful when touching the compressor, as it can be hot enough to cause a mild burn if it has been cycling unsuccessfully for hours.

Tools and Safety Gear Required for the Job

Before we start pulling panels off, let’s talk about the gear you need. This is a low-intensity repair, but because we are dealing with electricity and heavy appliances, safety is the priority. Always ensure your workspace is dry and that you have enough light to see the small terminals on the compressor.

  • Nut Driver or Screwdriver: Most Whirlpool back panels are held on by 1/4-inch hex head screws or Phillips head screws.
  • Needle-Nose Pliers: These are essential for pulling the wire connectors off the old relay without damaging the insulation.
  • Multimeter: While the shake test is great, a multimeter provides a scientific confirmation of the part’s resistance.
  • Work Gloves: The edges of the metal back panels and the cooling fins can be surprisingly sharp.
  • Flashlight: The area behind a refrigerator is usually dark and dusty; a good LED light is a lifesaver.

Safety is paramount when working on any appliance. Always unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet before you begin. Even though you are working at the back, the capacitors and relays carry enough voltage to give you a dangerous shock. Never attempt to test the relay while the unit is plugged in.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the Relay

Now that we have our tools and the power is off, it is time to get to work. Start by pulling the refrigerator away from the wall. You only need about two or three feet of clearance to work comfortably. This is also a great time to vacuum the condenser coils, as dust buildup makes your compressor work harder and can shorten the life of your new relay.

  1. Remove the Access Panel: Use your nut driver to remove the screws holding the thin metal or cardboard panel at the bottom rear of the fridge. Set the screws aside in a magnetic tray so they don’t roll under the cabinets.
  2. Locate the Compressor: The compressor is the large, black, dome-shaped tank. On the side of it, you will see a plastic cover or a wire bail holding the relay and capacitor in place.
  3. Disconnect the Wiring: Take a photo of the wiring configuration with your phone. This ensures you put the wires back on the correct terminals of the new whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay. Use your needle-nose pliers to gently pull the wire connectors off.
  4. Remove the Old Relay: The relay is plugged directly onto three metal pins protruding from the side of the compressor. Pull it straight toward you. It might be stuck due to heat, so a gentle wiggle can help loosen it.
  5. Install the New Part: Align the holes on your new relay with the pins on the compressor. Press it firmly into place. Reconnect the wires and the capacitor (if your model uses one) based on the photo you took earlier.

Once the new part is seated and the wires are secure, replace the access panel and screws. Plug the unit back in and listen. You should hear the compressor kick on with a steady hum almost immediately. If it starts up and stays running, you have successfully completed the repair.

Testing the Component with a Multimeter

If you want to be absolutely sure the whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay is the problem before buying a replacement, you can use a digital multimeter. This tool measures the electrical resistance (ohms) of the ceramic disk inside the housing. It is a more reliable method than the shake test, especially if the disk is cracked but not yet shattered.

Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms (Ω) setting. Place the probes into the two terminal holes where the compressor pins normally plug in. For a standard Whirlpool relay, you should see a reading between 3 and 12 ohms at room temperature. This indicates that the circuit is closed and the disk is intact.

If the multimeter shows “OL” (Open Loop) or an extremely high resistance (in the thousands of ohms), the relay is defective. The electrical current cannot pass through the ceramic, meaning the start winding will never receive the juice it needs to turn the motor. This clear “pass/fail” data is why I always keep a multimeter in my shop.

Testing the Compressor Pins

While you have the relay off, it is a smart move to test the compressor itself. Measure the resistance between the three pins on the compressor (Common, Start, and Run). You should get a reading between all pairs of pins. If any pair shows “OL,” the internal windings of the compressor are broken, and the fridge is likely beyond DIY repair.

Checking for Ground Faults

Touch one probe to a compressor pin and the other to the metal body of the compressor (scrape a little paint off for a good connection). You should see no continuity. If there is a reading, the compressor is “shorted to ground,” which is a dangerous condition that will trip your home’s circuit breaker.

Why Relays Fail and How to Prevent It

Understanding why these parts fail can help you extend the life of your appliance. The most common cause is heat fatigue. Because the PTC disk must heat up every time the fridge starts, it undergoes constant thermal expansion and contraction. Over several years, this stress causes the ceramic to become brittle and eventually crack.

Another major factor is dirty condenser coils. When the coils are covered in pet hair and dust, the compressor has to run longer and hotter to reject heat. This keeps the relay in a high-temperature environment for extended periods, accelerating the degradation of the internal components.

Finally, power surges or “brownouts” can be devastating. If the voltage in your home drops, the compressor draws more amperage to compensate. This extra current can flash-fry the relay disk or melt the plastic housing. Using a high-quality appliance surge protector can provide an extra layer of defense for your refrigerator’s electronics.

Comparison with Alternative Solutions

When faced with a clicking fridge, some people jump straight to buying a “Hard Start Kit” or a “3-in-1 Relay.” While these can be useful in an emergency, they are often a “band-aid” fix rather than a proper repair. A hard start kit uses a powerful capacitor to force a stubborn compressor to turn.

If your compressor is old and truly failing, a 3-in-1 might buy you a few more months of life. However, if your compressor is healthy, it is always better to use an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay. These are specifically calibrated for the electrical characteristics of your motor and are much safer for long-term use.

Hard start kits can sometimes provide too much current, which may eventually burn out the compressor windings. Stick to the factory-spec parts whenever possible. They are inexpensive, easy to find, and designed to keep your appliance running exactly as the engineers intended.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Refrigerator PTC Relays

How much does a replacement relay cost?

Generally, an OEM whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay costs between $15 and $40 depending on the specific model. Universal versions can be found for as low as $10, but I recommend staying with the manufacturer’s part for better reliability and fit.

Can I run my fridge without the relay temporarily?

No. The compressor cannot start without the initial boost provided by the relay. Attempting to bypass it or run the fridge without it will likely damage the compressor motor or trip your house breakers. It is best to keep the fridge unplugged until the part is replaced.

How do I find the correct part number for my fridge?

Locate the model number sticker inside your refrigerator (usually on the side wall or ceiling). Enter that model number into a reputable appliance parts website. This will give you a diagram and a specific part number for the relay that matches your compressor.

What if the new relay doesn’t fix the clicking?

If a new relay doesn’t solve the problem, the issue might be a failing compressor or a faulty main control board. If the compressor is humming but still clicking off with a brand-new relay, the internal bearings of the compressor may be seized, requiring a professional technician or a new refrigerator.

Is it worth fixing an old fridge with a bad relay?

Absolutely. Since the repair cost is so low (under $50) and the labor is minimal, it is almost always worth trying to replace the relay before giving up on the appliance. Many refrigerators have many more years of life left once this simple component is refreshed.

Final Thoughts on DIY Fridge Repair

Tackling a whirlpool refrigerator ptc relay replacement is one of the best ways to build your confidence as a DIYer. It takes you from a state of “my fridge is broken and I need to spend $1,000” to “I fixed it for the price of a pizza.” That shift in mindset is what the Jim BoSlice Workshop is all about.

Remember to keep your workspace clean, respect the power of electricity by unplugging the unit, and always verify your diagnosis with the shake test or a multimeter. Most of the time, these machines just need a little bit of maintenance and a cheap part to keep humming for another decade.

If you have followed these steps and your compressor is back to life, take a second to celebrate. You’ve saved food from the landfill and money from the repairman’s pocket. Keep that momentum going—whether it’s a clicking fridge or a wobbly table, there isn’t much you can’t fix with the right tools and a bit of “shop-sense.”

Jim Boslice
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