Whirlpool Refrigerator Side By Side Not Making Ice

ByJim Boslice Home & Kitchen

The most common reasons for a Whirlpool side-by-side ice maker failing are a clogged water filter, a frozen water supply tube, or a freezer temperature above 10°F (-12°C). To fix it, start by replacing your filter and ensuring the freezer is cold enough to trigger the harvest cycle.

If those basics don’t work, inspect the water inlet valve for continuity with a multimeter or check if the infrared optic sensors are blocked or faulty. Most DIYers can solve this in under an hour with basic hand tools.

There is nothing quite as frustrating as heading to the kitchen for a cold drink, only to hear the hollow click of an empty ice dispenser. You expect your appliances to work as hard as you do in the workshop, but even a reliable Whirlpool refrigerator side by side not making ice can happen to the best of us. When the ice production stops, it usually points to a simple mechanical or thermal bottleneck that you can fix yourself.

I know you would rather be at your workbench finishing a cabinet or welding a new bracket, but a broken fridge is a high-priority repair for any household. The good news is that these units are remarkably logical in how they operate, and you likely already have the tools needed to diagnose the issue. We are going to look at everything from water pressure to electrical solenoids to get your kitchen back in working order.

In this guide, I will walk you through a systematic troubleshooting process that saves you the $150 service call fee. We will cover the quick wins first before diving into the more technical components like the inlet valve and the ejector assembly. Let’s roll up our sleeves and get that ice bin full again.

Checking the Fundamentals of Your Whirlpool Refrigerator

Before we start tearing into the mechanical components, we need to rule out the simple “operator error” issues. It sounds basic, but you would be surprised how often a loose wire or a bumped switch is the culprit. In my experience, starting with the most obvious solution saves the most time in the long run.

First, verify that the ice maker is actually turned on. On many Whirlpool side-by-side models, there is a shut-off arm (a wire bail) that stops production when the bin is full. If a stray bag of frozen peas pushed that arm up, the machine thinks the bin is overflowing and will stop dead. Ensure that arm is in the “down” or “on” position.

Next, check your freezer temperature. This is a critical step that many DIYers overlook. An ice maker will not cycle if the internal temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12°C). If your freezer is hovering around 15 or 20 degrees, the mold thermostat won’t trigger the harvest. Use a digital thermometer to verify your settings and ensure the condenser coils under the fridge are clean and free of dust.

The Importance of Water Pressure

Your ice maker relies on a timed fill cycle rather than a float sensor. This means the water inlet valve opens for a specific number of seconds. If your home’s water pressure is too low, the mold won’t fill properly, leading to tiny cubes or no ice at all. You generally need at least 20 psi at the back of the unit.

If you recently moved the fridge or did some plumbing work nearby, check the saddle valve or the shut-off valve behind the unit. Ensure it is fully open. A partially closed valve is a common reason for a whirlpool refrigerator side by side not making ice because the flow is restricted enough to prevent the solenoid from seating correctly.

How to Troubleshoot a Whirlpool Refrigerator Side by Side Not Making Ice

Once you have confirmed that the power is on and the temperature is low enough, it is time to look at the water delivery system. This is the “veins and arteries” of your appliance. If the water can’t get to the tray, you won’t get any ice, regardless of how cold the freezer is.

The first stop is the water filter. Most modern Whirlpool units require a clean filter to maintain the correct flow rate. If you haven’t changed yours in six months, sediment and minerals can clog the internal membrane. Try removing the filter and installing the “bypass plug” that came with the unit. If the ice maker starts working again, you know a fresh filter is all you need.

Another common failure point is the water fill tube. This is the small plastic spout that delivers water into the ice tray. Because it is located inside the freezer, it can occasionally freeze over if the water pressure is low or if the inlet valve is weeping slightly. If you see a plug of ice in that tube, use a hairdryer on a low setting to gently melt it away. Avoid high heat, as you don’t want to warp the plastic components.

Inspecting the Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electromechanical component located at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. It uses a solenoid to open and close the water flow. Over time, these solenoids can burn out or the internal diaphragm can become stuck due to hard water deposits. This is a very common part to replace on older units.

To test this, you will need a multimeter. Unplug the refrigerator and locate the valve behind the lower access panel. Disconnect the wire harness and check for continuity across the terminals. If the meter shows “OL” or infinite resistance, the solenoid coil has failed. Replacing the valve is a straightforward task involving a couple of screws and a compression fitting.

The Role of the Optic Sensor System

Many Whirlpool side-by-side models utilize an infrared optic sensor rather than a physical wire arm to detect ice levels. There is an “emitter” on one side of the freezer wall and a “receiver” on the other. If the beam is broken by ice, the system stops making more. However, if these sensors fail, they can “fail safe” and stop production entirely.

Check the status light on the receiver board (usually on the right side). If it is blinking a specific pattern, it indicates a sensor fault. Sometimes, the flap on the emitter side gets stuck, blocking the beam. Ensure the flap moves freely and that there is no frost buildup over the sensor lenses. Cleaning the lenses with a soft cloth can sometimes solve the issue instantly.

If the sensors are getting power but the beam isn’t being acknowledged, you might need to replace the sensor boards. This is a common fix for a whirlpool refrigerator side by side not making ice when all other mechanical parts seem to be moving. It is a “plug and play” repair that requires a 1/4-inch nut driver and about fifteen minutes of your time.

Bypassing the Optics for Testing

If you are handy with a jumper wire, you can sometimes bypass these sensors to see if the ice maker motor itself is still good. By jumping the “T” and “H” points on the ice maker’s diagnostic module (located under the front cover), you can force a harvest cycle. If the fingers start to rotate, you know the motor and gears are functional, pointing the blame back at the sensors or the water supply.

Mechanical Failures in the Ice Maker Assembly

Inside the ice maker unit itself, there are several moving parts that can fail. The ejector arm is the plastic rake that pushes the cubes out of the mold. If these arms are bent or if the plastic has become brittle and snapped, the ice will stay stuck in the tray. This prevents the next cycle from starting because the mold is already full of frozen water.

The mold itself is coated with a Teflon-like finish to help the ice slide out. In areas with very hard water, this coating can peel or become covered in calcium deposits. When the surface gets rough, the ice sticks. While you can sometimes clean this with vinegar, usually it is more cost-effective to replace the entire ice maker head assembly if the coating is damaged.

The Mold Heater Element

Before the ejector arms push the ice out, a small heating element under the tray turns on for a few seconds. This melts the very outer edge of the cubes so they can slide out easily. If this heater fails, the ejector motor will stall because it cannot overcome the force of the ice bonded to the tray. You can test the heater for continuity with your multimeter just like you did with the inlet valve.

If you find that the motor is trying to turn but the ice won’t budge, the heater is likely the culprit. In most Whirlpool models, the heater is integrated into the mold, so you would replace the main ice maker unit. This is a very common project for a whirlpool refrigerator side by side not making ice and is a great way to get familiar with the internal wiring of your appliances.

Advanced Diagnostics: The Control Board

If you have checked the water, the sensors, and the mechanical assembly, and you still have no ice, the problem might lie in the main control board. This is the “brain” of the refrigerator. It sends the electrical signals to the inlet valve and the ice maker. While board failures are less common than mechanical ones, they do happen—especially after a power surge or a lightning strike.

Look for visible signs of damage on the board, such as burnt components or “puffed” capacitors. If you see any scorching, the board needs to be replaced. However, before you spend the money on a new board, double-check all your wiring connections. A loose pin in a plastic molex connector can mimic a dead control board and is much cheaper to fix.

Checking for Wire Harness Damage

In side-by-side units, the wiring for the ice maker often runs through the bottom door hinge. Over years of opening and closing the freezer door, these wires can fatigue and eventually snap. If you have no power at all to the ice maker unit, inspect the wire bundle at the bottom of the door. If you find a broken wire, you can strip the ends and use a heat-shrink butt connector to bridge the gap.

This is a classic “garage tinkerer” fix. It requires a bit of patience and some basic electrical tools, but it is much more satisfying than buying a new fridge. Just make sure the repair is low-profile so it doesn’t get pinched again when the door swings. Use electrical tape or a split-loom conduit to protect the repaired section from future wear.

Preventative Maintenance for Your Ice Maker

Once you have fixed your whirlpool refrigerator side by side not making ice, you want to keep it running smoothly. The best thing you can do is maintain a consistent temperature. Avoid leaving the freezer door open for long periods, which causes frost buildup on the mechanical parts. Frost can act like “glue” in the gears of the ejector assembly.

Regularly cleaning the condenser coils is also vital. When the coils are dirty, the compressor has to work harder, and the internal temperatures can fluctuate. This fluctuation can cause the ice to slightly melt and refreeze into a solid block in the bin, which can jam the dispenser motor. A quick vacuuming of the coils every six months goes a long way.

  • Change the filter: Every 6 months to ensure high water flow.
  • Clean the bin: Empty and wash the ice bin monthly to prevent “stale” ice clumps.
  • Level the fridge: Ensure the unit is level so the water fills the mold evenly.
  • Clear the sensors: Wipe the optic lenses with a damp cloth during your regular cleaning.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Ice Makers

Why is my ice maker making small or hollow cubes?

Small or hollow cubes are almost always caused by low water pressure or a partially clogged water filter. If the mold doesn’t fill all the way during the timed cycle, the cubes will be undersized. Replace your filter first, and then check the water inlet valve for sediment buildup.

How do I reset my Whirlpool ice maker?

You can often reset the unit by flipping the power switch off for 30 seconds or by cycling the shut-off arm up and down three times quickly. For models with optic sensors, unplugging the refrigerator for ten minutes will force the control board to reboot and recalibrate the sensors.

Can I manually fill the ice tray to test it?

Yes, you can carefully pour about 4 ounces of water into the mold. If the ice maker harvests that ice a few hours later, you know the mechanical and thermal components are working, and the problem is strictly with the water supply or the inlet valve.

How long should it take to see ice after a repair?

After a repair or a reset, it can take up to 24 hours for the unit to reach the proper temperature and begin full production. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t see cubes within the first hour; the mold thermostat must reach roughly 15°F before it triggers the first harvest.

Wrapping Up the Repair

Fixing a whirlpool refrigerator side by side not making ice is one of those DIY tasks that provides immediate gratification. There is something deeply satisfying about hearing that first batch of ice drop into the bin after you have spent time diagnosing the problem. Whether it was a simple filter swap or a more involved inlet valve replacement, you have saved money and extended the life of your appliance.

Remember to always prioritize safety when working on appliances. Unplug the unit before touching any electrical components and turn off the water supply before disconnecting lines. If you ever feel like a repair is beyond your comfort level, there is no shame in calling a pro, but for most “garage tinkerers,” these machines are very approachable.

Now that your kitchen is back in order, you can get back to the projects that really matter in the workshop. Keep your tools sharp, your water filters fresh, and your freezer cold. Happy tinkering!

Jim Boslice
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