Whirlpool Side By Side Refrigerator Not Cooling Or Freezing

There is nothing quite like the sinking feeling of opening your fridge to find a puddle of water and a warm gallon of milk. As someone who spends more time in the garage than the living room, I know that a broken appliance is just another project waiting for a solution. When you find your whirlpool side by side refrigerator not cooling or freezing, it can feel like a major disaster, but most of these issues are well within the reach of a determined DIYer.

I promise that by the end of this guide, you will have a clear roadmap to diagnose the problem without immediately calling an expensive repair technician. We are going to look at the mechanical, electrical, and airflow components that keep your food fresh and your beer cold. You do not need an advanced degree in engineering to tackle this; you just need some basic tools and a bit of patience.

We will start with the easiest fixes and move toward the more technical components, ensuring you do not spend money on parts you do not need. From cleaning out workshop-level dust to testing electrical continuity, we are going to get your kitchen back in working order. Let’s grab our toolkits and dive into the belly of the beast.

First Steps: Basic Troubleshooting and Airflow

Before we start tearing panels off, we need to check the basics because sometimes the simplest solution is the right one. First, ensure the refrigerator is actually receiving power and that the internal settings have not been accidentally bumped. I have seen many “broken” fridges that were simply turned down by a stray grocery bag hitting the control dial.

Check the vents between the freezer and the refrigerator compartments to ensure they are not blocked by bulky items. If you have a massive frozen turkey sitting right in front of the air return vents, the cold air cannot circulate. This leads to a freezer that stays cold while the refrigerator side begins to warm up significantly.

Inspect the door seals, also known as gaskets, for any gaps, tears, or hardened spots that might be letting cold air escape. A quick trick is to close the door on a dollar bill; if you can pull the bill out with no resistance, your gasket is failing. Clean the seals with warm, soapy water to ensure they are making a tight, airtight connection against the frame.

Cleaning the Condenser Coils for Peak Performance

In my workshop, I know that dust is the enemy of any motor, and your refrigerator is no different. The condenser coils are responsible for dissipating the heat removed from the inside of the unit. If these coils are covered in pet hair and dust, the compressor will overheat and eventually stop cooling effectively.

To clean them, pull the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the bottom toe kick plate or the rear access panel. Use a coil brush or a long vacuum attachment to gently remove the accumulated grime from the black serpentine coils. This is a task every homeowner should do at least once a year to extend the life of the compressor.

While you are back there, check the condenser fan motor located near the compressor to see if it is spinning. If the fan is clogged with debris or the motor has burned out, the coils cannot cool down. Give the fan blade a flick with your finger; if it does not spin freely, the motor bearings have likely seized up and need replacement.

Testing the Evaporator Fan Motor in the Freezer

If your freezer is somewhat cold but the refrigerator side is warm, the evaporator fan is often the prime suspect. This fan is located behind the back panel of the freezer and is responsible for drawing air over the cooling coils and pushing it into the cabinet. If you cannot hear a humming sound coming from the freezer, the fan might be dead.

To inspect it, you will need to remove the freezer shelves and the back cover panel using a 1/4-inch nut driver. Once the panel is off, look for any ice buildup that might be physically jamming the fan blades. If there is ice, you can carefully melt it with a hair dryer, but be careful not to warp any plastic components.

If the blades move freely but the motor does not run when the fridge is plugged in, you need to test it for continuity. Use a digital multimeter set to the ohms setting to check the motor windings. If the meter shows an “OL” or open circuit, the motor is toast and you will need to order a new Whirlpool-compatible fan motor.

whirlpool side by side refrigerator not cooling or freezing – Troubleshooting the Defrost System

When you encounter a whirlpool side by side refrigerator not cooling or freezing, the defrost system is a very common failure point. This system consists of a defrost heater, a defrost thermostat, and a control board or timer. If any of these fail, the evaporator coils will become encased in solid ice, blocking all airflow.

Check the evaporator coils behind the freezer panel; they should have a light dusting of frost, not a thick block of ice. If they are completely iced over, you have a defrost failure that is preventing the cooling cycle from working. You can manually defrost the unit to get it working temporarily, but the ice will return within a few days if the root cause isn’t fixed.

You can test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat using your multimeter for continuity. The thermostat should show continuity only when it is cold (below 40 degrees Fahrenheit). If the heater is physically cracked or shows no continuity, it cannot melt the ice, and you will need to replace the heating element to restore proper cooling.

The Role of the Defrost Timer or Control Board

In older Whirlpool models, a mechanical defrost timer clicks over every few hours to start the melting process. You can often find this timer behind the bottom grill or inside the refrigerator control housing. Use a flathead screwdriver to slowly turn the timer dial until you hear a loud click, which forces the fridge into defrost mode.

If the heater turns on after you manually turn the timer, then the timer motor is dead and needs to be replaced. On modern units, this is handled by an Electronic Control Board. If the board is faulty, it may not send the signal to start the defrost cycle, requiring a full board replacement which is a simple “plug and play” repair.

Checking the Air Damper and Thermistor

The air damper is a small motorized door that controls how much cold air flows from the freezer into the refrigerator. If this door gets stuck in the closed position, your freezer will stay freezing while your refrigerator side stays at room temperature. You can usually find the damper assembly at the top left or back of the refrigerator compartment.

Listen for a grinding or clicking noise when you first plug the refrigerator in, as the damper usually cycles during startup. If you suspect it is broken, you can often feel for airflow at the vents while the freezer fan is running. If no air is coming through, the damper motor has likely failed or the plastic housing is broken.

The thermistor is a sensor that monitors the internal temperature and tells the control board when to turn on the cooling. If the thermistor is defective, it might tell the fridge it is already cold when it is actually 60 degrees. You can test a thermistor with a multimeter by measuring its resistance in a glass of ice water; the resistance should change predictably as the temperature drops.

Diagnosing Compressor Start Relay Issues

The compressor is the heart of the cooling system, and if it does not start, nothing else matters. If you hear a distinct clicking sound coming from the back of the fridge every few minutes, but the compressor never hums, the start relay is likely the problem. This is a small plastic device plugged directly into the side of the compressor.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove the start relay from the compressor terminals. Give it a gentle shake; if it rattles like a box of broken glass, the internal ceramic disk has shattered. Replacing a start relay is an inexpensive fix that can save you from buying a brand-new refrigerator.

While the relay is off, you can also test the compressor pins for grounding issues or open windings. If the compressor itself has failed internally, the repair is usually too expensive for a DIYer, as it requires specialized welding and refrigerant handling. However, 90% of the time, the issue is the relay or the capacitor rather than the compressor itself.

Safety First: Tools and Precautions for the DIYer

Before you start poking around the electrical components of your Whirlpool, safety must be your top priority. Always unplug the power cord before removing any panels or touching wires. Refrigerators contain capacitors that can store an electrical charge, so handle the start relay and control boards with care.

You will need a few specific tools to do the job right. I recommend having a 1/4-inch and 5/16-inch nut driver, as these are the standard sizes for most appliance screws. A high-quality digital multimeter is essential for testing sensors and motors, and a shop vacuum is great for cleaning out those dusty coils.

Wear work gloves when reaching into the back of the unit, as the metal frame and cooling fins can be extremely sharp. If you are working on the defrost system, be careful with the glass heater tubes, as they are fragile. Taking these precautions ensures that your DIY project stays a success and doesn’t end in an injury.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Side by Side Refrigerator Not Cooling or Freezing

How often should I clean the coils on my Whirlpool refrigerator?

You should clean the condenser coils at least once every six to twelve months. If you have shedding pets or a dusty workshop nearby, you may need to do it more frequently to prevent the compressor from overheating.

Why is my freezer cold but my refrigerator is warm?

This is usually caused by a failure in the evaporator fan motor or a blocked air damper. It can also happen if the defrost system fails and ice blocks the vents that allow cold air to travel from the freezer to the fridge.

Can I fix a clicking refrigerator myself?

Yes, a clicking sound usually indicates a bad start relay on the compressor. This is a simple part to replace; you just unplug the old one and snap the new one onto the compressor terminals.

How do I know if my compressor is dead?

If you have replaced the start relay and the compressor still won’t start, or if it hums loudly and trips the circuit breaker, it may be dead. A professional should verify this, as compressor replacement is a complex job.

Is it worth repairing a 10-year-old Whirlpool refrigerator?

If the repair is a simple fan motor, relay, or cleaning, then yes. However, if the compressor has failed or there is a refrigerant leak, the cost of repair often exceeds the value of a decade-old appliance.

Getting Your Workshop Kitchen Back in Gear

Dealing with a whirlpool side by side refrigerator not cooling or freezing is a rite of passage for any homeowner who prefers to handle their own maintenance. By following these steps, you have moved from a place of frustration to a position of expert knowledge. Most of the time, these machines just need a little bit of cleaning or a simple part replacement to run for another five years.

Remember that the key to any successful DIY repair is a systematic approach. Don’t go out and buy a control board until you have checked the coils and the fans. Use your tools, trust your multimeter readings, and don’t be afraid to get your hands a little dirty. You have the skills to keep your household running smoothly without the high cost of a service call.

Now that you have mastered the cooling system, keep that momentum going! Whether it is fixing a leaky faucet or building a new workbench, the confidence you gain from fixing your own appliances will carry over into every other project in your shop. Stay safe, stay curious, and keep tinkering.

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Jim Boslice

Jim Boslice is a power tool enthusiast who tests, reviews, and shares practical guides to help DIYers and professionals choose the right tools for every project.

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