Whirlpool Side By Side Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing

ByJim Boslice Home & Kitchen

If your Whirlpool side-by-side freezer isn’t freezing, common issues often involve frost buildup, a malfunctioning defrost system, or problems with the evaporator fan. Always start by unplugging the unit for safety.

Many of these repairs are within the scope of a confident DIYer, requiring basic tools and careful attention to detail.

Picture this: You open your freezer, expecting solid ice cream and perfectly frozen meats, only to find everything soft, slushy, or worse – completely thawed. It’s a frustrating moment, especially when you rely on your Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator to keep your food safe and fresh. Before panic sets in and you reach for the phone to call an expensive technician, take a deep breath.

The good news is that many common reasons why your Whirlpool side-by-side freezer isn’t freezing are surprisingly fixable with a bit of DIY know-how and some basic tools. From simple frost blockages to more involved component checks, we’re going to walk through the process together. Think of me as your workshop buddy, guiding you through each step.

Here at The Jim BoSlice Workshop, we believe in empowering you to tackle these challenges head-on. By the end of this guide, you’ll have a clear understanding of what might be going wrong and how to diagnose and potentially repair your freezer, saving you time, money, and a lot of headaches. Let’s get your freezer back to tip-top, ice-making shape!

Understanding Your Whirlpool Side-by-Side Freezer’s Cooling System

Before we grab any tools, it’s helpful to understand the basic principles behind how your freezer works. It’s a fairly straightforward system, but knowing the key players helps immensely in troubleshooting.

Your Whirlpool side-by-side freezer uses a refrigeration cycle to remove heat from the compartment. This involves a compressor, condenser coils, evaporator coils, and a refrigerant.

The compressor pumps refrigerant through the system. This gas then moves through condenser coils (usually on the back or bottom of the fridge), where it releases heat and condenses into a liquid.

Next, it flows into the evaporator coils inside the freezer compartment. Here, the liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from the freezer’s air, turning back into a gas and making the area cold. A fan then circulates this cold air.

First Steps: Safety, Inspection, and Basic Checks

Safety is paramount in any DIY project, especially when dealing with appliances. Before you do anything else, you need to disconnect the power.

Always unplug your refrigerator from the wall outlet. Don’t just flip the breaker; pull the plug.

This prevents accidental shocks and protects the electronic components during inspection and repair.

Once the power is off, take a moment for a visual inspection.

  • Check the door seals: Are they sealing properly? A loose or torn gasket can let warm air in.
  • Look for frost: Excessive frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer can indicate a defrost problem.
  • Listen for noises: Did you hear any unusual sounds before it stopped freezing?

Common Culprits When Your Whirlpool Side-by-Side Refrigerator Freezer Not Freezing

When your Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator freezer not freezing, there are a few usual suspects. These are the components that most frequently cause issues and are often the easiest to diagnose and fix.

We’ll break down each of these common problems, explaining what they are, why they fail, and how you can check them.

Overloaded Freezer or Blocked Vents

Sometimes, the simplest explanation is the right one. If your freezer is packed too full, cold air can’t circulate properly.

Ensure there’s enough space around your food items for air to move. Also, check that no items are blocking the air vents, especially those on the back wall of the freezer compartment.

These vents are crucial for distributing the cold air generated by the evaporator fan.

Dirty Condenser Coils

The condenser coils are located on the back or underneath your refrigerator. Their job is to release heat.

If these coils get covered in dust, pet hair, and grime, they can’t dissipate heat efficiently. This forces the compressor to work harder, leading to poor cooling performance.

To clean them, unplug the fridge, pull it out from the wall, and use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment or a stiff brush to carefully clean the coils. This is a crucial maintenance step often overlooked.

Malfunctioning Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor is responsible for circulating cold air from the evaporator coils throughout the freezer compartment. If this fan isn’t running, the cold air stays trapped around the coils, and the freezer won’t get cold.

You can often hear this fan running when the freezer door is open. If you open the freezer door and don’t hear a fan noise, or if you hear a grinding noise, it might be faulty.

To access it, you’ll need to remove the freezer’s back panel. Inspect the fan blade for obstructions (like ice) and try to spin it manually. If it’s stiff or doesn’t move freely, the motor may be bad.

Defrost System Failure

This is a very common reason for a Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator freezer not freezing. Modern freezers have an automatic defrost system to prevent frost buildup on the evaporator coils. If this system fails, ice can accumulate on the coils, blocking airflow and preventing the freezer from getting cold.

The defrost system consists of several components:

  • Defrost Heater: Melts the frost.
  • Defrost Thermostat (or Bi-Metal Thermostat): Senses the coil temperature and activates the heater.
  • Defrost Timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control Board): Cycles the system into and out of defrost mode.

If any of these components fail, frost will build up.

Troubleshooting the Defrost System: Heater, Thermostat, and Timer

Diagnosing a defrost system issue requires a multimeter and a bit of patience. Always ensure the refrigerator is unplugged before performing any tests.

You’ll need to access the evaporator coils, usually by removing the back panel inside the freezer.

Checking the Defrost Heater

The defrost heater is typically a long, thin tube located beneath or within the evaporator coils.

  • Visual Inspection: Look for any visible damage, like breaks or burn marks.
  • Continuity Test: Using a multimeter set to ohms (Ω), test for continuity across the heater’s terminals. A good heater will show continuity (a low resistance reading, typically under 100 ohms). No continuity means an open circuit, and the heater is bad.

If the heater is faulty, it won’t melt the frost, leading to ice buildup.

Testing the Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat, or bi-metal thermostat, is a small, disc-shaped component clipped to the evaporator coil tubing. It’s normally closed when cold (below a certain temperature, usually around 10-15°F) and opens when warm.

  • Continuity Test (Cold): To test it, you’ll need to make sure it’s cold. You can either test it when the freezer is already very cold, or you can remove it and place it in a cup of ice water for a few minutes.
  • With the thermostat cold, test for continuity across its terminals. A good thermostat will show continuity. If it’s open (no continuity) when cold, it’s defective.

A bad defrost thermostat won’t allow the heater to turn on, causing frost accumulation.

Examining the Defrost Timer or Control Board

The defrost timer (in older models) or the adaptive defrost control board (in newer, electronic models) controls when the defrost cycle initiates.

  • Defrost Timer: If your model has a mechanical timer, you can often manually advance it. Turn the timer’s dial clockwise until you hear a click, which should engage the defrost cycle. If the heater then warms up (you’ll need to feel for warmth carefully, or listen for sizzling ice), the timer might be faulty. If the heater doesn’t come on, the timer or another defrost component is bad.
  • Control Board: For models with an electronic control board, diagnosis is more complex. Often, if all other defrost components test good, the control board is the likely culprit. Replacing control boards can be expensive, so ensure you’ve ruled out all other possibilities first.

Diagnosing Evaporator Fan and Compressor Issues

Beyond the defrost system, the evaporator fan and compressor are critical for cooling.

Evaporator Fan Motor Check

We mentioned this earlier, but it’s worth a more detailed look.

  • Listen and Observe: With the freezer door switch pressed (to simulate a closed door) and the power on, listen for the fan. If you hear nothing, or a faint hum but no air movement, the motor is suspect.
  • Manual Spin: After unplugging the fridge, remove the back panel to access the fan. Try to spin the fan blades by hand. They should spin freely. If they’re stiff, obstructed by ice, or wobble, that’s a problem.
  • Continuity/Resistance Test: Using your multimeter, you can test the motor’s windings for continuity or resistance. Consult your appliance’s service manual for specific resistance values. An open circuit or extremely high resistance indicates a bad motor.

Replacing the evaporator fan motor is a common DIY repair and relatively straightforward.

Compressor and Start Relay

The compressor is the heart of the refrigeration system. If it’s not running, or running inefficiently, your freezer won’t cool.

  • Listen for Hum: When the refrigerator is plugged in, listen at the back for a humming sound. This is the compressor running. If you hear nothing, or only a click every few minutes, it could be the compressor or its start relay.
  • Start Relay: The start relay is a small component attached to the side of the compressor. It provides a boost to get the compressor motor running. If it’s faulty, the compressor won’t start. You can often test the start relay for continuity. Some relays also have an overload protector, which can trip if the compressor is struggling.
  • Compressor Failure: A compressor failure is a major issue and usually requires professional service. It’s often indicated by a loud humming but no cooling, or the compressor not running at all. This is typically not a DIY repair due to the specialized tools and refrigerants involved.

When to Call a Pro: Knowing Your Limits

While tackling DIY repairs is rewarding, there are times when calling a professional appliance technician is the wisest choice.

  • Refrigerant Leaks: If you suspect a refrigerant leak (e.g., a sweet chemical smell, very poor cooling with all other components testing good), this is not a DIY repair. Refrigerant handling requires specialized equipment and certification.
  • Compressor Replacement: As mentioned, replacing the compressor is a complex job that should be left to certified technicians.
  • Electrical Complexity: If you’re uncomfortable with electrical testing or the wiring seems too complex, don’t risk it. Safety first.
  • Lack of Specialized Tools: Some diagnostics might require specific tools you don’t have.
  • Time vs. Cost: Sometimes, the time and effort required to diagnose and repair an elusive problem might outweigh the cost of professional service.

Don’t feel defeated if you need to call a pro. Knowing your limits is a sign of a smart DIYer.

Preventative Maintenance for Optimal Performance

Keeping your Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator freezer not freezing in the future is easier than you think with a few simple maintenance steps. Regular upkeep can significantly extend the life of your appliance and prevent costly repairs.

  • Clean Condenser Coils Regularly: Make it a habit to clean the condenser coils every 6-12 months. This is one of the most effective ways to ensure efficient cooling.
  • Check Door Gaskets: Periodically inspect the door seals for cracks, tears, or signs of wear. A simple dollar bill test can help: close the door on a dollar bill. If you can easily pull it out, the seal might be weak in that spot.
  • Monitor Freezer Temperature: Use a dedicated freezer thermometer to monitor the internal temperature. It should ideally be 0°F (-18°C) or colder.
  • Avoid Overpacking: Ensure adequate airflow around your food items and don’t block air vents.
  • Defrost Manually (if needed): If your auto-defrost system seems to be struggling, a manual defrost (unplugging and letting all ice melt) can sometimes temporarily resolve issues and give you time to diagnose further.

Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Freezer Issues

Why is my Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator freezer not freezing but the fridge side is cold?

This often points to an issue specifically within the freezer’s cooling or defrost system. Common culprits include a faulty evaporator fan motor (which moves cold air), a blocked air vent, or a problem with the defrost heater, thermostat, or timer, leading to ice buildup on the coils.

How long does it take for a Whirlpool freezer to get cold after being plugged in?

Typically, a Whirlpool freezer should reach its target temperature (around 0°F or -18°C) within 4-8 hours after being plugged in, assuming it’s empty. If it’s taking significantly longer or not reaching temperature at all, there’s likely a problem.

Can a dirty condenser fan cause my freezer to stop freezing?

Yes, absolutely. A dirty condenser fan or coils prevent the refrigerator from properly dissipating heat. This makes the compressor work harder, reducing its efficiency and leading to inadequate cooling in both the fridge and freezer compartments.

Is it safe to DIY repair a freezer, or should I always call a professional?

Many common freezer problems like cleaning coils, replacing a door gasket, or even swapping out an evaporator fan motor or defrost thermostat are manageable for a DIYer. However, issues involving refrigerant leaks or compressor replacement are best left to certified professionals for safety and proper handling.

What’s the difference between a defrost timer and an adaptive defrost control board?

A defrost timer is a mechanical component found in older freezers that cycles the defrost heater on and off at fixed intervals. An adaptive defrost control board, found in newer models, is an electronic component that intelligently monitors usage patterns and coil temperature to optimize defrost cycles, making the system more energy-efficient.

Final Thoughts from The Jim BoSlice Workshop

Tackling appliance repairs can feel daunting, but with the right information and a methodical approach, you can often save yourself a significant amount of money and gain a huge sense of accomplishment. Remember, the key is to approach each step safely, patiently, and with a keen eye for detail.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty, but always know when it’s time to step back and call in the cavalry. Whether you’re fixing a simple blockage or diving into the defrost system, every successful repair builds your confidence as a DIYer. Keep honing those skills, and your workshop (and your home) will thank you for it. Happy tinkering, and here’s to a perfectly frozen future!

Jim Boslice
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